4 September, 2021. Serenity and crew crosses her wake and completes America’s Great Loop

 

35 SM; 6.8 hours and one final lock up

Marvelous anchorage last night.  So peaceful, never woke until 0500.  Kim’s early morning anchorage video. But we have a mission today.  Buck strong currents up the Cumberland river arriving at the Barkley lock and dam.  Overcast, rain threatening and more forecast later today, we made ready to get underway.  All set, anchor hoisted at 0700.  Brief journey around the towhead island, exposed to the strong Ohio river currents briefly, then turning into the Cumberland with it’s own swift currents.  Ran a couple of extra hundred RPM today just to stay consistent at 5 MPH.  Six hours to make 30 miles but we made it.  I had called the lock master early this morning to ensure there was no unscheduled maintenance and to let him know we were coming and his lock was the last lock on our journey.  A mile before the lock I hailed the lock master via radio with our position and requested a lock up.  He welcomed us back and said the lock was ready, door open and proceed on in.  That we did and tied up on the starboard side.  Arrived at the lock at 1300.  A pretty quick ride up of 47 feet.  Shortly the doors opened and we exited into Lake Barkley.  Bitter sweet knowing we entered and exited our last lock on this journey.  

Approaching the opened Barkley lock

Doors closing behind Serenity

We had traveled down the Cumberland River from Mt Juliet, TN, 200 miles to the east, 1 November, 2019.  We will not return back up the river.  Instead, two miles ahead, we cross our wake, the track/location we passed on 5 November, 2019 and proceed to the same anchorage where we spent the night.  Kim’s anchorage video

Crossing tracks, crossing our wake

Completing the Loop at 1330 after 6322 statute miles traveled.  2086 hours total on the Yanmar diesel.  We popped the top on a sprite and toasted our achievement and completion. The crew filled with various emotions.  We have enjoyed the clean water of Lake Barkley this afternoon with swim call.  Made spaghetti from scratch for boat supper.  Storms, hopefully not severe and heavy rain on the way tonight and tomorrow.  Will set the anchor alarm once again; verify the anchor is set and ride it out.  

We intend to remain on Lake Barkley for a couple of days, then we will take Serenity to Green Turtle Bay marina, just 3 miles away.  Due to the holiday weekend we cannot get a slip until next week.  Then pick up a rental vehicle, unload all of our stuff and head to SW Missouri.  We will return back in a few days with all of the boat cushions and stuff we off-loaded two years ago that belong on Serenity.  Serenity will get a very through cleaning, oil and filter changes and waxing inside and out.  Serenity has been a great little boat and a safe boat.  The Yanmar diesel has performed flawlessly.  We have spend every night aboard, 302 nights of travel.  We have several more nights aboard before this adventure concludes.  

In a few days I will gather statistics and post.   Thank you to those who have followed and offered encouragement along the way. To many who met us in some marina and we shared time, and good food together thank you.  

6323 SM; 2086.2 hours hobbs.

3 September, 2021. Planned short day to a safe anchorage

 

12 SM; 2.5 hours

Relatively easy day.  No rush to wake up or get up.  Secured on the inside of the substantial Paducah city docks.  Cool night and morning.  Slept well.  We arranged for an instacart grocery delivery vice taking an UBER which probably would have cost as much considering transportation both ways.  Excellent service and we put away our provisions.   Topped off the fresh water tank.  Called the city and requested fuel.  I am certain Serenity had fuel to make our destination, but it is a barren route with zero chance of resupply or even reasonable rescue so why risk running out?  Took on 22.4 gallons.  About what I expected.  

Impressive floating walkway from floating dock to waterfront @ Paducah

We verified all gear stowed away, lines ready, the checklists completed. We untied from the fuel dock at 1150 and re-entered the Ohio river headed NE.  River has risen some during the night as forecast.  We expected more debris and current but about the same as yesterday.  About 2.5 mph current.  Our speed over ground 5.0 mph.  We are heading to a well regarded anchorage behind an island and clear of the main river and shipping lanes.  Only a short distance but still takes 2 1/2 hours due to the slow speed.  We have followed a very large tow/barge complex since departing Paducah.  

Tow dry dock repair facility

Kentucky side of Ohio—attempting to ID trees.  Cottonwoods?

Follow this captain for 12 miles before we exited the river

We exited to the SE off of the river to an area between KY on the south and Cumberland Island on the north.  It is called the Cumberland Towhead.

The term "towhead" implies an islet (small island) or shoal within a river (most often the Mississippi River) having a grouping or thicket of trees, and is often used in the Midwestern United States. ... The term "towhead" was popularised by Mark Twain's Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

Water upon entry was 20+ feet as we made our way deeper into the protected area.  Easing toward the north shore we dropped and set the anchor in 12 feet of water at 1410.  Lovely spot, current to keep us orientated, quiet and we are the only boat here.  Kim’s anchor video  Warmer this afternoon with a slight breeze but high clouds came from the NW and temperatures have dropped a few.  Pleasant sunset; water is smooth and the current carries flotsam and jetsam past.

Today’s intent was to finish the Ohio portion of our journey.  Tomorrow morning we will exit our anchorage and maybe do 1/2 mile on the Ohio then turn SE and travel up the Cumberland River 30 miles to the Barkley lock and dam.  Due to hurricane Ida’s heavy rains last week, the dam is passing high amounts of water.  We anticipate 2 mph current to buck again tomorrow.  So, the 30 miles will take at least 6 hours.  There is less commercial traffic on this lock so we should have a good 6 hours of daylight remaining in the day if we have to wait for our turn to lock.  There are no anchorages on this stretch.  This lock lifts 47 feet up to lake Barkley.  An anchorage is a couple of miles after we exit the lock into lake Barkley.

6288 SM journeyed; 2079.4 hours hobbs

2 September, 2021. Long day dodging river traffic and fighting current on the Ohio

54 SM; 10.5 hours and one lock

 Excellent and peaceful sleep at anchorage last night.  Cool and comfortable as temps dropped into the middle 50s.  Gentle rock as the Mississippi River traffic went about their business.  We would like to get to Paducah, KY tonight. We have to engage the Olmstead lock and dam on the Ohio.  It can be a long wait for commercial traffic, and with fighting a 2+ mph current we cannot make Paducah.  We want to get as far up river today due to a surge of water coming down from the upper Ohio valley from the recent heavy rains from storm Ida.  No flooding, but 3-4 foot river level rise with corresponding increasing currents.  

Weather reviews to include river stages, breakfast and prayers finished,  we fired up the diesel and hoisted the anchor at 0730 and raced down the Mississippi River the remaining 7.7 SM to the junction at Fort Defiance.

Looking east: junction of two great rivers

Serenity’s location just before we turn into the Ohio river

Into the Ohio, our 10+ mph speed over the ground slowed to 4-4.5 MPH and we realized it was going to be a long day.  The river is stacked both sides and in the middle with barges.  We passed under two major US highway 60/62 bridges over the Mississippi and Ohio rivers we have driven over many years.  Certainly a different view from the water looking up.

US 60 Mississippi

US 60 Ohio

Tows everywhere; up, down and left and right.  It was busy all the way today.

Two whistle pass

Large 4 story tow encountered on Mississippi/Ohio rivers

Grain harvest beginning to be loaded

We reached Olmstead lock about mid-day.  Both chambers were occupied with commercial traffic so we idle/maneuvered around for nearly an hour as there was no place to anchor or tie up easily.  Finally, lock master cleared us to approach the outside lock wall and secure and wait.  Cautiously in about 3 mph current racing through the nearby dam we approached the lock wall and secured Serenity.  Another 30 minute wait with engine off.  

So new, it still smells new

Finally, the lock chamber doors opened and we were give OK to enter.  Started up and motored 1000 yards and secured starboard side to inside the chamber.  Only about 2 foot lift!  Soon, forward chamber doors opened and we proceeded out into the most confused, stiff and swirling currents we have experienced exiting a lock.  At times I had to use cruise RPM to move, steering stop to stop to maintain a straight course until finally we cleared the lock area and re-entered the Ohio.  For the remainder of the afternoon, currents decreased some and we were making 5 MPH speed over ground.  Paducah still a ways ahead; GPS reporting at current speed we would arrive 45 minutes before sunset.  We pressed on dodging tows and debris in the water.  

We made it to the new Paducah city docks.  Excellent facilities off of the river.  Another boat at the docks directed us around to the inside, off of the river face and caught our lines.  All secure at 1830.  So glad to have this day behind us.  No google map—-apple and google have decided not to play nice on my phone tonight?  Kim’s city dock video

Tomorrow we will top off the diesel tanks.  Pretty sure I have enough, but still have about 60 miles of bucking an increasing downstream current, so why risk running out?  We will take an Uber to get groceries as it is too far to walk, then head back up river later in the afternoon to an anchorage off the Ohio.

6276 SM traveled; 2076.9 hours hobbs

1 September, 2021. Lots of traffic on a winding Mississippi day.

77 SM; 8.0 hours

 Not the best sleep last night.  Though we were clear and safe from the tow/barge traffic, every hour a north or southbound passed.  Pretty noisy and we were close enough to feel the wake.  Crazy current at the anchorage.  No swing but we could hear the water running along the side of Serenity.  Wanted to complete most of the Mississippi today.  So, with a bit of breakfast, prayers and checklists completed we raised the anchor at 0720.  Planned to go at 0700 but there were two large tow/barge complexes going north and south so we waited.  Foggy in the trees, but river visibility was good to go.  Slight NE breeze.  Constant traffic on the waterway today.  Heard one tow report there is no movement south of the Ohio junction due to hurricane damage on the southern Mississippi River.  Consistent 10 MPH speed over ground.  At times 11.5 mph.  Distance traveled today would normally take us 10+ hours at our usual cruising speed.  Good to go.  Drizzle off and on, but by middle afternoon the skies were partly cloudy and lower temperatures and humidity.  Temperatures may drop into the lower 60s or upper 50s tonight.  That will be excellent.

Glad to have the AIS.  It has been one of the most favorable pieces of equipment added before the loop.  We see the commercial traffic and they can see us.  Vessel name, range, bearing and closest point of approach and crossing angle is good information.  

Lost a long time ago

Bluffs carved from the untamed river

We reached our intended anchorage south of Boston Island, just north of I-57 bridge.  We are well off the channel and protected to the north by a large wing dam and to the south by the bridge.  We set the anchor in 12 feet of water and secured the Yanmar at 1500.  (Map). 7.7 SM to the Ohio junction.  Kim’s anchorage video. Tomorrow we will finish the remainder of the upper Mississippi River, having traveled  217 miles from the junction of the Illinois river.  From Minneapolis to the Ohio is 858 SM.  From the Ohio to New Orleans the lower Mississippi is 855 SM long.  Heading up the Ohio we will fight the current.  The Olmstead lock is about 25 miles away.  Hope the wait is not too long so we can continue up river.  

The Mississippi has been stressful.  Lots of large, large commercial boats, limited services and facilities and questionable anchorages.  Many of the large tows pushing 4x5 or 4x6 or larger barges up river kick up 3-5 foot standing waves.  They are short duration but impressive.  In the narrow channels the waves bounce back and forth across the water as they slam into one bank then race over to the other.  Makes for quite a bumpy ride.  Along with the one whistle-two whistle passing instructions, the river tow captains have distinct voices, short, crisp communication and often drawn out southern drawl.  Colorful and difficult communication at times to this recreational boat captain.  

3 x 5 gravel tow/barge along right descending bank

62222 SM journeyed; 2066 hours hobbs.

31 August, 2021. Ridding the current down big muddy

75 SM; 7.5 hours

 Rain stopped, temperatures dropped and there was a breeze.  Great sleeping last night tied up to the rusty barges at Hoppies.  Bouncy at times as the tows passed but not too bad.  Only real weather issue this morning was potential fog.  But after sunrise, the hills smoked with a wisp of fog; the river appeared clear.  Verified weather, river levels, then completing our boat checklists, we untied the lines and with a bit of throttle eased forward into a nearly three mph current.  Underway at 0700 we turned down river once clear of the barges and started the day.  Overcast from the outer bands of IDA, temperatures remained cool for half of the day.  Mid-day skies began to clear then mostly partly cloudy as the sun warmed up Serenity.  A 10 mph north breeze behind us most of the afternoon and the tropical depression continued moving NE.  Slight chance of thunderstorms this afternoon but further south we traveled, those chances decreased.  

Average over 10 mph speed over ground.  Zooming along.  No delays during the entire day.  

Bluffs along the Mississippi-Missouri side

Impressive tow/barge complexes today.  One was pushing 5x6= 30 barges.  We stayed clear all day.  Current consistent 3+ mph all day.

Huge tow/barge

Buoy and downstream water flow

We have pulled off the river along the Right Descending Bank (RDB) at mile 84.4.  We anchored well outside of the channel in 8 feet of water at 1430.  (Map) Boat perfectly aligned into the current and anchor set very well in sand.  Called a passing tow and were told we were in a safe place for the night.  So here we are.  Kim’s anchor video. 84 miles remaining of the Mississippi River to the Ohio junction.  Will not do it all tomorrow even with the current.

6145 SM journeyed; 2058.4 hours hobbs

30 August, 2021. St. Louis MO extremely congested with massive barges, tows and water traffic

 

43 SM; 5 hours and two locks

We were more than ready to head south down the Mississippi.  While Alton Marina offered very nice amenities, heat and lack of breeze made for an uncomfortable stay.  Watching and studying the weather to determine impact of Ida as we continue south.  Our 200 mile stretch of the Mississippi will not be impacted by the hurricane, but the Ohio river and certainly the Cumberland river might. Preparations complete we untied the lines at 0655 and eased out of the marina slip and into the south flowing Mississippi waters.  I had called the Mel Price lock, 2 miles ahead and they reported no delay.  Approaching we raised the lock tender on the radio and were told no delay as the lock was prepared for our arrival.  Easy in and about 20 foot descent and we were cleared to exit.  A little further down river we arrived at the junction of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers.  Current increased another 1.5 MPH.

Junction of Missouri and Mississippi River

Speed increasing as we passed the river junction and entered the Chain of Rocks canal leading to the Chain of rocks/LOCK 27.  This diversion by-passes a shallow area with rapids along the river.   We waited an hour and fifteen minutes while commercial traffic cleared the lock before we could enter.  Only about 12 feet descent and we exited the last lock on the Mississippi and were St. Louis bound.

Doors opening on last lock on Mississippi

Aft doors that raise up to close lock

Current now adding nearly three mph to our speed over the ground as we approach St. Louis.  River traffic is impressive with both banks of river lined with barges and tows moving back and forth.  At the arch there is a web cam looking west toward St. Louis.  We were able to capture a screen shot as Serenity rushed pass.  Kim’s web cam capture video

Tiny Serenity just south of Arch

We wanted to travel about 80 miles down river today, using the extra speed to shorten the travel day, but Mother Nature had other plans.  An intermediate safe stop along the river was available if weather threatened.  Ahead the visual signs of thunderstorm development was occurring, confirmed by checking my weather radar app.  For an hour or so, it seemed that the cells were moving eastward and would clear our path before we arrived.  But as the afternoon heating continued, it was clear both visually and on radar that we would soon be surrounded by thunderstorms.  An hour ahead was Hoppies Marina services.  Hoppies has been on the river as a river camp and marina for nearly 40 years, but has been wiped out numerous times due to flooding.  It just recently reopened this spring after being out of service due to the 2019 floods.  Making 10 MPH it was a race to beat the weather.  I called Hoppies on the phone letting them know we were two miles north.  They had folks ready to catch our lines upon arrival.  With lightening and thunder just south, we arrived and secured at 1315.  About 30 minutes later heavy rain and lightening began and continued for the next 4 hours.  (Map)

Hoppies today, is three old rusty barges secured to the right descending bank of the Mississippi River providing both gas and diesel.  There was electrical power but we just paid for dockage.  Not much here anymore, but we are safely secured, out of the channel.  Kim’s Hoppies video. 

Hoppies barges

Serenity secured at south end

Rain slacked up around 1700.  Daughter of grandfather Hoppy who established this place over 40 years ago came down at 1730 and gave us a good river brief.  Provided insight of safe anchorages as we continue our travel down the Mississippi.  About sunset the rain stopped and it was a cooler, thought a damp evening.  Might be fog tomorrow morning delaying our departure.  We will push southward toward the Mississippi-Ohio river junction 160 miles ahead.

6070 SM traveled; 2050.9 hours hobbs

28-29 August, 2021. Trying to cool off in Alton, Illinois

 

Red strip on grain silo is high water of 1993

Heat index of over 100 degrees continues and unfortunately Serenity and crew remain very hot and uncomfortable.  We have enjoyed the cooling opportunities of the swimming pool here at that marina, but the marina location behind a 15 foot flood levy on the western side parallel to the river, and a large levy east of the marina means very little breeze gets to us.  It has been very hot and humid, with little change at night.  But, we have made the best of it.  We have walked early each morning.  Laundry washed, dried and put away.

Marina office

Old theater downtown

Old bank downtown—clock does not work

The marina is very clean and the bathrooms and showers are as nice as any we have visited.  Actually, the best on the entire trip.  Staff very friendly and accommodating.  Boat cleaning the best we could considering the heat.  While our slip is covered, 1/3 of the boat is in the sun during the morning hours and by the time all is shaded it was just to hot to clean more outside.

Local grocery

Schwegel’s market provides pick up and return for loopers staying at the marina.  We gave them a call and they picked us up and brought us back.  About a mile away up a pretty steep grade.

View of Mississippi from hill in town

Hurricane Ida will have an impact on our continued journey this week.   We are watching closely as Ida curves and heads NE across the Ohio and Tennessee valleys.  Extreme rain may cause flooding and excessive water run off may impact the Ohio river.  We have to run up current on the Ohio so more water will make that portion of the journey a bit more of a challenge.  Traveling down the Mississippi about 200 miles to the junction of the Ohio should not be impacted by the hurricane.  Further south will be an issue.

Planning to get underway early Monday morning.  Rain and thunderstorms in the forecast but not much wind in the St.Louis area.  Two locks to negotiate on the Mississippi.  First is only two miles away; second about 18 miles further south.  Hope there are no major delays.

27 August, 2021. The mighty Mississippi. 6000 statue miles traveled

 

36 SM; 4.6 hours

Anchor up and undway at 0730.  Just prior to reaching the Mississippi, the trip counter rolled over 6000 statute miles.  Hard to believe.  

Chart plotter rolling over 6000 SM

Location along Illinois river at 6000 miles

Shortly after, the Illinois river emptied into the Mississippi.  Wow.  Cell coverage finally improved, nearly civilization again.  Internet/WiFi marginal and nearly unusable.  We are headed to Alton Marina, Alton Illinois.  

Grafton, IL, mile 0 on Illinois river, mile 217 on Mississippi

Bluffs along the Mississippi River

At 1200 we eased off the Mississippi into the levied and well protected Alton Marina.  We will top off the diesel tanks, provision and catch up on some planning for the next week ahead.  The marina has a pool, air conditioned deli we can cool off in and covered slips.  A grocery store within walking distance.   Kim’s marina video  From here it is 202 SM to the junction of the Ohio river.  We will ride down the Mississippi, then plow our way up current on the Ohio until we reach the Tennessee or Cumberland river.  Each has a lock and dam.  Will not make that decision until later next week.  Most likely will take the slightly longer route to the Cumberland as the Kentucky Lock and Dam carries the most commercial traffic and wait times can be days for pleasure craft.  

For the weekend we are going to chill out here.   We need to do some chart study as we have two massive locks on the Mississippi to negotiate within the first 1/3 of the river passage.  Anchorages, and safe harbors are few the entire way.   With topped off diesel tanks we have enough fuel for over three hundred miles with reserve.  We are less than 300 SM to our end point at Green Turtle Bay marina,Grand Rivers, KY where we will cross our wake.  So we need to plan accordingly due to increasing current and massive tow/barge complexes moving north/south on the Mississippi.  We are in a covered slip, and can reach both sides of Serenity.  So boat cleaning is in order as well.  Having successfully traveled from Chicago to here, we celebrated last night with pizza.

Pretty good with a coke

6027 SM traveled; 2045.2 hours hobbs

26 August, 2021. Another blazing hot day on the Illinois River

 

49SM; 5.6 hours, last lock on Illinois River

Safe night at anchorage.  Numerous tow/barges passing by during the night and numerous trains across the bridge but nothing frighteningly close.  Today the final lock, La Grange will be the last lock on the Illinois waterway.  Internet remains down as the service provider reporting out of service for a few more days.  Effecting all customers.  Cell coverage nearly non-existent.  I have ATT, Kim has TMoble.  Kim as occasionally 1-2 bars, I have none.  So no pictures today.  Lots of Eagles observed again today.  Tow traffic decreasing and river has begun to widen and current slowing.  Our anchorage only about 20 miles from the Mississippi junction.  Another 35 miles south will be our destination tomorrow at Alton marina in Illinois.  We have anchored in an oxbow well off the river; narrow but plenty of swing room and enough scope for the expected thunderstorms later this evening.  10 foot depth and very warm water, we dropped the anchor at 1600.  A slight breeze, but extremely hot and humid.  Swim call.  We float in the brown but cooling water for over two hours until approaching thunder chases us out of the water.  Cooler winds approach with the rain and storms.  Should be a safe anchorage tonight.  Kim’s anchorage video

5991 SM journeyed; 2040.6 hours hobbs

25 August, 2021. Rolling down the Illinois River

 

54 SM; 8 hours, one final lock on Illinois river

Hot, hazy and humid.  Internet remains down.  Our provider has a system wide outage. Repair TBD.  Short post, due to connectivity issues, cell service nearly non existent today.  Lots of commercial river traffic today.  No wait at La Grange lock, where we descended 8 feet and continued down river.  We are going further than desired due to heat index of 105+ so moving creates a breeze.  Underway at 0750 and anchored at 1600 just north of a RR bridge and well off of the channel but still on the river.  (Map). Swim call in brownish water, but refreshing.  Many tow/barges have passed both north and southbound before sunset and we are well clear.  Should be a safe night.  Kim’s anchor video

No pictures due to bandwidth issues via cel phone.  I must say, from Joliet to our present location this has been the most prolific bald eagle habitat we have encountered in nearly 6000 miles.  Daily I have seen around 10 adults or juveniles. It is very rural, appears to have plenty tall trees and plentiful fish and carrion.  Pretty amazing.  Tomorrow we will cruise pass 6000 miles.

5942 Sm journeyed, 2035.0 hours hobbs

23-24 August Waiting for diesel at IYC; now cruising again

48 SM; 7 hours and one lock

Brief update as we have lost internet and our anchor location has marginal cell coverage.  Will update this posting once better connection.  Fuel issues at the marina were fixed; we topped off our tanks and were under way at 1115.  Hot, hazy and humid.  Heat index warning for next three days.  No recreational boat traffic but lots of tows pushing large barge complexes today.  Peoria Lock no waiting and quick six foot lock down.

We pressed onward to a safe anchorage on the land side of Quiver Island near the town of Havana, IL.  Safe anchorage.   Set the anchor at 1800, splashed the dinghy and had swim call.  (Map)  Severe Thunderstorms pass through the area with the damaging winds just to our north, but we had 30 MPH gusts, spectacular lightening and brief heavy rain.  Good news it cooled off considerable.  After 2200 all was quiet.  Kim’s anchor video

5888 SM journeyed; 2027.0 hours hobbs