4 September, 2021. Serenity and crew crosses her wake and completes America’s Great Loop

 

35 SM; 6.8 hours and one final lock up

Marvelous anchorage last night.  So peaceful, never woke until 0500.  Kim’s early morning anchorage video. But we have a mission today.  Buck strong currents up the Cumberland river arriving at the Barkley lock and dam.  Overcast, rain threatening and more forecast later today, we made ready to get underway.  All set, anchor hoisted at 0700.  Brief journey around the towhead island, exposed to the strong Ohio river currents briefly, then turning into the Cumberland with it’s own swift currents.  Ran a couple of extra hundred RPM today just to stay consistent at 5 MPH.  Six hours to make 30 miles but we made it.  I had called the lock master early this morning to ensure there was no unscheduled maintenance and to let him know we were coming and his lock was the last lock on our journey.  A mile before the lock I hailed the lock master via radio with our position and requested a lock up.  He welcomed us back and said the lock was ready, door open and proceed on in.  That we did and tied up on the starboard side.  Arrived at the lock at 1300.  A pretty quick ride up of 47 feet.  Shortly the doors opened and we exited into Lake Barkley.  Bitter sweet knowing we entered and exited our last lock on this journey.  

Approaching the opened Barkley lock

Doors closing behind Serenity

We had traveled down the Cumberland River from Mt Juliet, TN, 200 miles to the east, 1 November, 2019.  We will not return back up the river.  Instead, two miles ahead, we cross our wake, the track/location we passed on 5 November, 2019 and proceed to the same anchorage where we spent the night.  Kim’s anchorage video

Crossing tracks, crossing our wake

Completing the Loop at 1330 after 6322 statute miles traveled.  2086 hours total on the Yanmar diesel.  We popped the top on a sprite and toasted our achievement and completion. The crew filled with various emotions.  We have enjoyed the clean water of Lake Barkley this afternoon with swim call.  Made spaghetti from scratch for boat supper.  Storms, hopefully not severe and heavy rain on the way tonight and tomorrow.  Will set the anchor alarm once again; verify the anchor is set and ride it out.  

We intend to remain on Lake Barkley for a couple of days, then we will take Serenity to Green Turtle Bay marina, just 3 miles away.  Due to the holiday weekend we cannot get a slip until next week.  Then pick up a rental vehicle, unload all of our stuff and head to SW Missouri.  We will return back in a few days with all of the boat cushions and stuff we off-loaded two years ago that belong on Serenity.  Serenity will get a very through cleaning, oil and filter changes and waxing inside and out.  Serenity has been a great little boat and a safe boat.  The Yanmar diesel has performed flawlessly.  We have spend every night aboard, 302 nights of travel.  We have several more nights aboard before this adventure concludes.  

In a few days I will gather statistics and post.   Thank you to those who have followed and offered encouragement along the way. To many who met us in some marina and we shared time, and good food together thank you.  

6323 SM; 2086.2 hours hobbs.

3 September, 2021. Planned short day to a safe anchorage

 

12 SM; 2.5 hours

Relatively easy day.  No rush to wake up or get up.  Secured on the inside of the substantial Paducah city docks.  Cool night and morning.  Slept well.  We arranged for an instacart grocery delivery vice taking an UBER which probably would have cost as much considering transportation both ways.  Excellent service and we put away our provisions.   Topped off the fresh water tank.  Called the city and requested fuel.  I am certain Serenity had fuel to make our destination, but it is a barren route with zero chance of resupply or even reasonable rescue so why risk running out?  Took on 22.4 gallons.  About what I expected.  

Impressive floating walkway from floating dock to waterfront @ Paducah

We verified all gear stowed away, lines ready, the checklists completed. We untied from the fuel dock at 1150 and re-entered the Ohio river headed NE.  River has risen some during the night as forecast.  We expected more debris and current but about the same as yesterday.  About 2.5 mph current.  Our speed over ground 5.0 mph.  We are heading to a well regarded anchorage behind an island and clear of the main river and shipping lanes.  Only a short distance but still takes 2 1/2 hours due to the slow speed.  We have followed a very large tow/barge complex since departing Paducah.  

Tow dry dock repair facility

Kentucky side of Ohio—attempting to ID trees.  Cottonwoods?

Follow this captain for 12 miles before we exited the river

We exited to the SE off of the river to an area between KY on the south and Cumberland Island on the north.  It is called the Cumberland Towhead.

The term "towhead" implies an islet (small island) or shoal within a river (most often the Mississippi River) having a grouping or thicket of trees, and is often used in the Midwestern United States. ... The term "towhead" was popularised by Mark Twain's Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

Water upon entry was 20+ feet as we made our way deeper into the protected area.  Easing toward the north shore we dropped and set the anchor in 12 feet of water at 1410.  Lovely spot, current to keep us orientated, quiet and we are the only boat here.  Kim’s anchor video  Warmer this afternoon with a slight breeze but high clouds came from the NW and temperatures have dropped a few.  Pleasant sunset; water is smooth and the current carries flotsam and jetsam past.

Today’s intent was to finish the Ohio portion of our journey.  Tomorrow morning we will exit our anchorage and maybe do 1/2 mile on the Ohio then turn SE and travel up the Cumberland River 30 miles to the Barkley lock and dam.  Due to hurricane Ida’s heavy rains last week, the dam is passing high amounts of water.  We anticipate 2 mph current to buck again tomorrow.  So, the 30 miles will take at least 6 hours.  There is less commercial traffic on this lock so we should have a good 6 hours of daylight remaining in the day if we have to wait for our turn to lock.  There are no anchorages on this stretch.  This lock lifts 47 feet up to lake Barkley.  An anchorage is a couple of miles after we exit the lock into lake Barkley.

6288 SM journeyed; 2079.4 hours hobbs

2 September, 2021. Long day dodging river traffic and fighting current on the Ohio

54 SM; 10.5 hours and one lock

 Excellent and peaceful sleep at anchorage last night.  Cool and comfortable as temps dropped into the middle 50s.  Gentle rock as the Mississippi River traffic went about their business.  We would like to get to Paducah, KY tonight. We have to engage the Olmstead lock and dam on the Ohio.  It can be a long wait for commercial traffic, and with fighting a 2+ mph current we cannot make Paducah.  We want to get as far up river today due to a surge of water coming down from the upper Ohio valley from the recent heavy rains from storm Ida.  No flooding, but 3-4 foot river level rise with corresponding increasing currents.  

Weather reviews to include river stages, breakfast and prayers finished,  we fired up the diesel and hoisted the anchor at 0730 and raced down the Mississippi River the remaining 7.7 SM to the junction at Fort Defiance.

Looking east: junction of two great rivers

Serenity’s location just before we turn into the Ohio river

Into the Ohio, our 10+ mph speed over the ground slowed to 4-4.5 MPH and we realized it was going to be a long day.  The river is stacked both sides and in the middle with barges.  We passed under two major US highway 60/62 bridges over the Mississippi and Ohio rivers we have driven over many years.  Certainly a different view from the water looking up.

US 60 Mississippi

US 60 Ohio

Tows everywhere; up, down and left and right.  It was busy all the way today.

Two whistle pass

Large 4 story tow encountered on Mississippi/Ohio rivers

Grain harvest beginning to be loaded

We reached Olmstead lock about mid-day.  Both chambers were occupied with commercial traffic so we idle/maneuvered around for nearly an hour as there was no place to anchor or tie up easily.  Finally, lock master cleared us to approach the outside lock wall and secure and wait.  Cautiously in about 3 mph current racing through the nearby dam we approached the lock wall and secured Serenity.  Another 30 minute wait with engine off.  

So new, it still smells new

Finally, the lock chamber doors opened and we were give OK to enter.  Started up and motored 1000 yards and secured starboard side to inside the chamber.  Only about 2 foot lift!  Soon, forward chamber doors opened and we proceeded out into the most confused, stiff and swirling currents we have experienced exiting a lock.  At times I had to use cruise RPM to move, steering stop to stop to maintain a straight course until finally we cleared the lock area and re-entered the Ohio.  For the remainder of the afternoon, currents decreased some and we were making 5 MPH speed over ground.  Paducah still a ways ahead; GPS reporting at current speed we would arrive 45 minutes before sunset.  We pressed on dodging tows and debris in the water.  

We made it to the new Paducah city docks.  Excellent facilities off of the river.  Another boat at the docks directed us around to the inside, off of the river face and caught our lines.  All secure at 1830.  So glad to have this day behind us.  No google map—-apple and google have decided not to play nice on my phone tonight?  Kim’s city dock video

Tomorrow we will top off the diesel tanks.  Pretty sure I have enough, but still have about 60 miles of bucking an increasing downstream current, so why risk running out?  We will take an Uber to get groceries as it is too far to walk, then head back up river later in the afternoon to an anchorage off the Ohio.

6276 SM traveled; 2076.9 hours hobbs

1 September, 2021. Lots of traffic on a winding Mississippi day.

77 SM; 8.0 hours

 Not the best sleep last night.  Though we were clear and safe from the tow/barge traffic, every hour a north or southbound passed.  Pretty noisy and we were close enough to feel the wake.  Crazy current at the anchorage.  No swing but we could hear the water running along the side of Serenity.  Wanted to complete most of the Mississippi today.  So, with a bit of breakfast, prayers and checklists completed we raised the anchor at 0720.  Planned to go at 0700 but there were two large tow/barge complexes going north and south so we waited.  Foggy in the trees, but river visibility was good to go.  Slight NE breeze.  Constant traffic on the waterway today.  Heard one tow report there is no movement south of the Ohio junction due to hurricane damage on the southern Mississippi River.  Consistent 10 MPH speed over ground.  At times 11.5 mph.  Distance traveled today would normally take us 10+ hours at our usual cruising speed.  Good to go.  Drizzle off and on, but by middle afternoon the skies were partly cloudy and lower temperatures and humidity.  Temperatures may drop into the lower 60s or upper 50s tonight.  That will be excellent.

Glad to have the AIS.  It has been one of the most favorable pieces of equipment added before the loop.  We see the commercial traffic and they can see us.  Vessel name, range, bearing and closest point of approach and crossing angle is good information.  

Lost a long time ago

Bluffs carved from the untamed river

We reached our intended anchorage south of Boston Island, just north of I-57 bridge.  We are well off the channel and protected to the north by a large wing dam and to the south by the bridge.  We set the anchor in 12 feet of water and secured the Yanmar at 1500.  (Map). 7.7 SM to the Ohio junction.  Kim’s anchorage video. Tomorrow we will finish the remainder of the upper Mississippi River, having traveled  217 miles from the junction of the Illinois river.  From Minneapolis to the Ohio is 858 SM.  From the Ohio to New Orleans the lower Mississippi is 855 SM long.  Heading up the Ohio we will fight the current.  The Olmstead lock is about 25 miles away.  Hope the wait is not too long so we can continue up river.  

The Mississippi has been stressful.  Lots of large, large commercial boats, limited services and facilities and questionable anchorages.  Many of the large tows pushing 4x5 or 4x6 or larger barges up river kick up 3-5 foot standing waves.  They are short duration but impressive.  In the narrow channels the waves bounce back and forth across the water as they slam into one bank then race over to the other.  Makes for quite a bumpy ride.  Along with the one whistle-two whistle passing instructions, the river tow captains have distinct voices, short, crisp communication and often drawn out southern drawl.  Colorful and difficult communication at times to this recreational boat captain.  

3 x 5 gravel tow/barge along right descending bank

62222 SM journeyed; 2066 hours hobbs.