29-31 July, 2021. Holed up in Northport MI

 

Eastward from our marina slip

Northport is a nice, reasonably quiet and friendly town and or village.  Safe to walk.  Grocery store is small, it is well stocked and while prices are rising, do not seem to reflect the rural ness of  the area.  We have walked north/south and east/west.  Pretty much each day.  Days have been very windy, stormy with rain light to heavy.  It has been chilly and even cool a couple of mornings.  Middle of the lake waves have ranges 4-5 with occasional 8 footers.  Nearshore, predominant 3-4 footers at times decreasing for a few hours to 2-3 footers.  The big sail boats and larger yachts and trawlers have also remained put.    Frustrating not being able to travel, but conditions are not right for Serenity and us yet.  

While exercising ashore each day, we have been eating too much and too much fun food due to sitting in one place.  Got to get a grip on this eating, but the ice cream has been good. 

Interesting farmers market, with more craft items vice food booths, but it was fun to walk through.  There was a live music in the park in front of the marina Friday night.  Park was packed with the locals.  Music good and not too loud.  Boat has been cleaned a couple of times, but the spider infestation continues.  Did not get bug spray, so will have to coexist and broom them off now and then.

Local farmer’s market stand one of a few stands

Northport, MI  We had hopped to ride the local bus, but it’s weekly schedule to/from Traverse City only ran early morning and late afternoon and did not make stops where some of lighthouses we wanted to visit.  So no bus ride.  We checked out the local rental store with water toys but their bikes were not so good and too expensive.  So we have seen what we could see in Northport by foot.

28 July, 2021. Beautiful calm day but where to hide from the approaching storms

 

25 SM; 3.8 hours

Ok anchorage last night.  Winds generally light as we were in a reasonably protected area.  But we were too close and on the wrong side of a public launch ramp.  We got waked pretty good by large fishing boats headed out.  We have a bit of a dilemma as strong storms and high winds forecast later tonight and into the weekend.  Limited protected anchorages out on Lake Michigan, and designated safe harbor marinas established along the coast are reporting full and no availability.  It is supposed to be nearly calm all day across northern Lake Michigan.  We would like to go further, but the marina with openings is over 12 hours away; an intermediate marina has no availability.  So we are going to take our time and head across Grand Traverse Bay and make safe at Northport MI at the state safe harbor marina.

No rush this morning as there is fog due to calm winds.  By 0730 visibility was improving as we raise the anchor at 0740 and retraced our electronic bread crumbs back out of Lake Charlevoix, into round lake with no wake zones and waited for the lift bridge to open at 0800.  Easing out in to Lake Michigan visibility was ok and water smooth with slight ripples.  One of those mornings were the sky and water blended together and up/down and left/right difficult to determine.  It was such an easy cruise.  A few wakes from passing boats, but light and variable winds with water unbelievably smooth for a Great Lake.  Such a shame to not travel further, but really no place we felt would be safe to anchor later tonight or thru the weekend.  

Red light house exiting Charlevoix Inlet

It was good to cross Grand Traverse bay, it is very long and 10 miles wide and could be nasty with a south-southeast blow.  Navigating around significant shoaling as we approached Northport, we headed due west for the final 3 miles and entered the walled marina and make our way to our assigned slip.  Northport Municipal marina. Tied up to the dock with the diesel and all electronics off at 1120.  (Map). Nice public beach and park adjacent to the marina.  Grocery store 0.2 mile away.  Kim’s video

Wonder who sits in the beach chairs?

Beach cabanas?

We spend the afternoon, cleaning the boat.  The outside is filthy and we have been invaded by spiders and mayflies.  I am going to the nearby hardware store to get poison and apply to the outside of the boat.  Once the boat was cleaned up, we walked to the grocery store, just to look around.  It is a nice small town.  

We expect to be here a few days.  Thunderstorms remain in the forecast, thought it appears the severe and dangerous weather will pass south, but winds in excess of 20 knots expected tonight and all day tomorrow.  Small craft advisory most likely all day tomorrow.  Through the upcoming weekend, thunderstorms and strong winds will keep Lake Michigan churned up.  We will just have to be patient.

5305 SM; 1940.9 hours hobbs.

27 July, 2021. Long day starting at 0300.

 

20 SM; 3.4 hours

0300 lightening, thunder and rain woke us. As forecast, not a surprise.   Normally not a big deal but tonight was different.  Late yesterday afternoon/evening two sport fishing style boats came into the small anchorage.  One in front of us and one beside.  One was a 60 foot Viking and the other 50-55 footer unnamed.  They had no fishing gear nor was their ground tackle ( anchoring equipment) suitable for the size of boats and depth of water.  I took the dinghy over to the closest boat and said you are anchored too close for the expected thunderstorms later tonight.  The big boat was too close even on a calm night.  I did not get a favorable response from the gentleman onboard.  It was too late and no where else to relocate so I stayed put.  Fortunately, there were winds but nothing damaging or overly strong.  First, the boat too close got his dinghy caught in my anchor line.  While I was untangling that and trying to wake somebody up there was pretty good lightening and rain.  Once untangled, the big boat swung more and we were touching.  I had tied our dinghy on the starboard side to act as big fender; on the port side I had placed our big lock fenders.  I knew we were going to touch before I went to sleep.  While holding off the big boat, which touched us a couple of times, the gentlemen fell over the side and was not wearing a life jacket.  Fortunately for him, his grip on the railing held and he pulled himself back onboard his boat.  So for the next couple of hours, I was on the bow with a boat hook in hand fending off a jerk in a big boat.  The big Viking may had touch bottom, as I heard both bow and stern thrusters going, and shortly this boat backed along side of a private dock.  Our offending boat also fired up, retrieved his flimsy anchor and motored over and secured to the private dock.  Whew…what a night.  POC and i went to bed and slept for a few hours.

I had two anchor alarms set last night and we never moved except for the normal swing around the anchor as the winds shift.  Our planned mid morning departure at 1000 was delayed because of totally unexpected winds.  After the trough/front and line of thunderstorms cleared to the SE the winds were supposed to decrease with a corresponding smoothing of the lake waves.  Did not happen, but in fact winds remained strong from the NW and waves stayed about two feet.  So we sat at anchor.  Napped and read.  I was getting frequent near real time winds/waves from a nearby weather buoy in Little Traverse bay.  At noon winds and waves were decreasing ever so slowly.  Wind forecasts still remained favorable, but real world did not presently match the computer models.  Finally at 1400 wave height was 1.6 feet.  We prepared for our departure and finalized our plans and checklists.  By 1500 wave height was 1.5 feet and we decided to go.  Anchor up at 1515 and we headed toward our destination in lumpy and bumpy conditions.  First hour wave on the bow but winds and waves decreasing.  The last hour, not a bad ride all the way to the protected entrance channel at Charlevoix, MI.  Waiting maybe 10 minutes for the lift bridge to open, we passed through continuing through round lake and entering Lake Charlevoix  then to our anchorage.  We safely anchored in 20 feet of water.  Surprisingly water was 76 degrees on the surface.  1825 all stop.  (Map). It has been a long day, stressful, but thankful no one fell overboard, struck by lightening and Serenity appears OK.  Anticipate a quiet night at anchor.  Kim’s video

Boat houses

Lake front

Lake front with big boat

Water skiing Lake Charlevoix

5280 SM traveled; 1937.1 hours hobbs

26 July, 2021. Hello Lake Michigan and goodbye Lake Huron

 

50 SM; 7.3 hours

Last night winds were questionable to depart this morning, especially the southern portion of the route.  Rise and shine at 0400, coffee mug in hand, the weather gods appeared to change their minds.  The entire route wind forecast was more favorable, but waves probably were going to be on the choppy and lumpy side.  We checked and double checked and decided it was a go to begin the long southern leg of Lake Michigan.  Gear stowed for rough conditions, checklists complete, the little Yanmar diesel warming, we untied the lines at 0545.  Southerly winds forecast to gust to 20 knots later in the day, so early departure required.  Eased out of the slip and out of the marina with the navigation lights illuminated as official sunrise was still distant.  Not dark, nautical twilight and visibility excellent.  We are traveling today with Sea Moor, another looper in a 29 foot American Tug.

Retired Icebreaker

Illuminated Tug

Only about three miles traveled and we passed under the Straits of Mackinaw bridge and officially entered Lake Michigan.  Yea.

Looking NW; still in Lake Huron

Getting closer

West side of bridge heading west; officially in Lake Michigan

The above route picture shows a nearly 3.0 hour transit west.  There is a peninsula that juts into the lake nearly 21 miles and at the end are numerous rocky shoals.  Careful navigation and finding the navigation markers were key—much easier now days with GPS and electronic charts, but visual confirmation a good thing if the magic quits.

Abandoned light house—replacement to the right out of view

Winds and waves were stronger and higher than forecast.  Westerly and waves 1-2 feet on the bow.  Ahead 2.5 hours was Beaver island with a good anchorage and marina.  We contemplated heading there, and would have but as we got to our western turn point the winds as forecast began to shift to WSW.  Turning south, the waves were on the starboard bow and not too rolling.  So we pressed ahead another four hours toward our intended destination.  Our wind app predicted decreasing and shifting winds from about 0900-1100 along with a calming sea state.  In fact it happened as forecast.  So we enjoyed OK conditions until about 1100.  Then the winds resumed and built up 10-14 MPH from the SW and resultant wave action did too.  Last two hours of travel was a curving path toward the SE, putting the waves on the starboard beam so it was roll, roll, rolling along we went.  Not violent, but definitely had to hang on and we stored items off of the helm station.  Crazy deep harbor; 95 feet deep mid harbor.  We headed toward the anchorage and got as close as we could to the beach and yacht club before dropping the anchor in 20 feet of water.  Engine secured at 1245.  (Map) We both gave each other hi-fives for completing our first leg on Lake Michigan. This was a bit challenging and there were no bail out options without long open water passages.  So blessed to have this first leg under our belts. Kim’s video

Nap time, then afternoon coffee.  We splashed the dinghy and took Kaos to town. This is a very high end community.  Homes massive, yacht and tennis clubs everywhere, and big boats fill the waterways. Harbor Springs, MI  We walked around for exercise then rode Kaos back to Serenity.  

Homes along the shoreline

Main Street home

Dinghy dock; Kaos at the very far end

Left overs for supper.  Cool breezes tonight on the anchorage.  Thunderstorms forecast late tonight or very early tomorrow morning.  Remainder of tomorrow after the thunder and rain pass through looks go for traveling.  Plan to make leg number two on Lake Michigan tomorrow.

5260 SM journeyed; 1933.7 hours hobbs

25 July, 2021. Relocation to Mackinaw City

 

16 SM; 2.5 hours

Sunday morning bible study and church services via internet.  Breakfast and boat preparation tasks.  We were relocating to Straits State Harbor today in anticipation having decent weather tomorrow to begin the transit into and down Lake Michigan.

We were underway by 0900 and exited the harbor and entered the last portion of Lake Huron on a NW course.  Winds forecast to stiffen to 20 knot gusts from the west by mid day.  So we wanted to get there before noon.  It was a bumpy ride especially the last hour as winds did pick up and while we had some buffering from the NW shore, the winds were whipping around the far corner and churning up the water.  Also, getting closer to our destination, the ferries were churning up the water with their wakes.  But we made it just fine and confirming our slip assignment via radio we navigated into the harbor and safely secured to our assigned slip at 1115.  Winds definitely picking up and they were very strong from the stern as we berthed.  Kim’s video

We are going to tour the retired USCG icebreaker cutter Mackinaw, which Congress authorized funding to build a week after the Japanese attack,  7 December 1941.  The raw material requirements were so great for the war production, that an Icebreaker was needed to keep the supply chains open all year in the Great Lakes region.

Icebreaker Machinaw

It was a great tour and well worth the admission price.  We spend a good portion of the afternoon on board the ship.  For the remainder of the afternoon we walked around this very tourist supported village.  A windy day, but sunny skies.  On the way back to Serenity we got a pound of smoked white fish from the recommended local market.  We had smoked white fish onboard for supper.  It was pretty good, but a little too salted for taste.  

Breakwater light house

Icebreaker museum 

Stern of USCG Mackinaw

Tonight we are preparing Serenity for continued travels.  Checking and double checking the weather.  Tomorrow has some late afternoon winds that are a bit bothersome.  Will check latest wind forecast early tomorrow.

5210 SM journeyed; 1926.4 hours hobbs

20-24 July, 2021. Boat maintenance and tourist stuff

20 July.  Weather decent, not too hot or cold as we remain tied to the city marina wall.  Decent place, folks friendly.  Completed boat projects; house battery bank distilled water top off and refreshed the composting toilet.  Early morning walk across the Cheboygan river to a large marine repair and haul-out/storage facility who happened to have Yanmar engine oil and fuel filters to replenish the ones used.  While there asked if they had distilled water.  Nope, but were headed out to get some soon and they would call me when it came in this morning.   About an hour later the marine ship store called and had the distilled water.  Another brisk walk and for $1.00 I had my distilled water and was back on the boat.  POC walked 1.5 miles to the Wal-mart area and visited a couple of thrift stores and got a few items.  She caught the county bus back to Serenity.  I had completed the boat projects when she arrived.  We both stowed gear and cleaned the inside of the boat.  Peaceful day in Cheboyan.

21July.  Relocation day.  Clear and crisp this morning; 50 degrees.  

3/4 SM and 0.4 hours.  Very short move

Called the nearby lift bridge and confirmed their scheduled opening and provided our location.  We are about 100 yards from the bridge so once we untie and ease into the river we will be there pretty quick.  Reviewing our checklists, removing shore power cord and untying the lines, we cast off and proceeded toward the rising lift bridge.  We had secured a slip at the Cheboyan county marina, a state harbor of refuge with state park rates.  We desired a bit more security for Serenity as we planned to spend several long days away from the boat.  Additionally, severe weather was approaching this weekend. A quick trip down the river to the marina located just inside the breakwater off Lake Huron.  Quickly secured, Serenity and crew would remain for a few days.  Marina has excellent laundry facilities on site so we washed and dried clothes.  Also, a decent marina grill, so we grilled some hamburger beef for supper.  

Finalized our planning for the next few days.  Winds and weather certainly make journeying problematic this weekend but look better by Sunday and into the follow week.  Tomorrow we will take a ferry to Bois Blanc island with the crew off of Sea Moor and spend the day.  We have a car reserved for two days;  Friday we will go to Mackinaw City and ride the ferry to Mackinic Island and spend the day.  Saturday we will drive to Sault St Marie and meet our Florida friends who live in Marquette, MI and visit a maritime museum, the SOO locks and have lunch.  

22 July.  Ferry ride to Bois Blanc Island

Native people, French, British and USA

The island is very rural, dirt roads and limited services other than electric, wells and septic systems.  There is a small marina for the ferry service and a small airport for air service mainly during the winter months when the ferry stops.  We packed lunch and took rain gear in our backpacks.  Quick ferry ride and we were on the island.  We had coordinated with a local islander who rents bikes.  We got two OK mountain bikes and we rode probably 12-15 miles.  Our bottoms were pretty sore at the end of the day.  Great outdoor exposure as we rode around and through the island.  Pretty and fresh.  We returned our bikes at lunch time and walked a bit more here and there.

Island lake..very beautiful

Gravel roads on the island

Ferry landing

A cloudy day with occasional drizzle but cool.  Great bike riding weather.  We caught the late afternoon ferry back to Cheboygan.  A short walk back to Serenity completed the day.  A few nibbles for supper and we were soon asleep, pooped from the day’s activity.

23 July.  Early morning go.  Taking the rental car to Mackinaw City to catch the early ferry to Mackinaw City, then the high speed ferry to Mackinac Island. Both the city and island are pronounced the same, just different spellings.  MAC-IN-AW.  Ferry was 5 times faster than Serenity and we were dock to dock in 16 minutes.  What an amazing contrast to Bois Blanc Island.  Mackinac Island

1400 rental bikes on island

Our tandem ride around island

Beautiful homes, B&Bs and Inns

Fort is impressive and worth the long climb up the hill

Looking down on village

Only legs, bikes or horses allowed on island

Harbor view from fort hill top

We hiked, walked, climbed and rode till we were completely wore out.  Beautiful day, sunny clear skies.  Grand Hotel the largest front porch in the world; but to sit on it you have to pay!  But we walked the hill to see it and the most beautiful flowers and gardens I have ever seen.  Near the end of the day we caught the ferry back to Mackinaw City and drove the rental car back to Cheboygan and Serenity.  A quick bite to eat, showers, then sleep came quick and easy.

24 July.  Up early and rain gear packed.  We are headed to Sault St. Marie, to visit the maritime museum with the Edmund Fitzgerald artifacts.  While we have been lifted up and down by many locks, the “SOO Locks” are massive with four chambers, three able to handle 1000 foot Great Lake freighters.  Also, there is a great visitor center and observation platform to watch the big freighters lock up/down.  Finally, our friends from Florida live in Marquette Mi and will drive over to see us and have lunch.

It was mostly a rainy and stormy day with drizzle, lightening and heavy rain off and on all day.  But we had fun.  We drove over twice the Straits of Mackinaw bridge which we have to go under once we head into Lake Michigan.  The maritime museum was Ok but would not recommend.  The locks were great and there was a freighter locking down at 1300 and it was nice to watch a 750 foot long, 75 feet wide ship enter and exit the locks.  We had a great dinner with our friends Mike and Ann from Marquette and Naples.  We broke down and bought fudge—seems to be a thing in Michigan.  Not quite a two hour drive back to Serenity with rain showers off an on.  But around 1900 the sun began to peak around the clouds and by sunset the sky was clearing.  Another fun day exploring but we are pooped again.  

Mackinac bridge

Freighter route Great Lakes to the sea

SOO locks admin building

Freighter entering the locks

Mighty tasty

No boat miles this period.

19 July, 2021. At the top of the mitten

 

57SM;  8.3 hours

Another planned long day.  Cannot pass up decent weather days here on the Great Lakes.  Pretty good sleeping at anchor last night, but wind did come up and begin to rock the boat around 0300.  There are bail out options along our planned course, but they were around 20 miles apart, so nothing real quick.  Studying the weather; Serenity remains under the influence of a high pressure system with clear skies and hardly any chance of thunderstorms until real late tonight. Winds forecast to be light to 10-15 mph during portions of the trip, generally westerly winds but clocking around more to the NW the last couple of hours.    So, areas of near calm and one foot or less waves to other areas of stronger winds and choppy two foot waves.  We are traveling today with Curt’s Dream; at least headed the same direction and time.  Coffee complete, gear stowed and checklists complete we were ready.  Anchor raised and stowed at 0620; we retraced our electronic bread crumbs out of the harbor and into Lake Huron.  Wind and waves as expected choppy and sloppy.  This continued for the next three hours as we pressed ahead.  Near Huron beach, which was about 5 miles south, this large bay crossing of almost 3 hours, the water was nearly calm, gently rolling swells with little wind chop.  How nice.  Rounding the corner at High Banks, winds stiffened and came from the NW at with gust around 15 mph.  Decent two foot wind waves made the last two hours slightly uncomfortable but not unsafe.  Spotting the red buoy signifying  Cheboyan, MI harbor entrance was a welcome sight.  Within a mile we were in the calm but flowing current of the Cheboyan river headed to the fuel dock at the county marina.

Taking on 33 gallons of diesel fuel at a ok price, we contemplated spending at night or two here, but this marina was a decent walk to downtown Cheboyan.  Ahead less than a mile was the city wall in the center of town with prices at $1.00/foot including electric and showers.  We had to wait for highway 23 bridge to open on schedule at 1/4 past the hour.  Once opened we eased up the river to the wall and secured at 1430.  (Map). Around supper time the harbor master/police man came by collecting money and providing the shower codes.  We visited with him as he was very friendly and offered suggestions on things to do and see.  

End of another long travel day on Lake Huron

We currently are planning a two night stay.  Boat maintenance tasks of oil change with new filter, fuel filter changes and rebuild of the racor external fuel filter.  This filter housing swirls the fuel in a lower bowl before sucking up the fuel through the fuel filter then on to the engine main fuel filter.  Since leaving Florida in late March, all the refuels, sloshing around with the wave action, causes any crud, bacterial growth or dirt particles to get left in the bottom of this bowl.  There is a low point drain, but not 100% of the particles drain out.  I only rebuild and clean this external filter housing when I have a rebuilt kit.  Ordered two a month ago and with the kit, can now disassemble, clean, replace consumables and put back into service. Will also resupply groceries and paper products while here.

Kim’s wall video

We will probably hang around the area for a few days and do tourist stuff.  We also need to do some planning as we complete Lake Huron and begin the journey down Lake Michigan.

5192 SM journeyed; 1923 hours hobbs.

18 July, 2021. Not a perfect cruising day, but pretty close for Lake Huron

 

72 SM; 10.2 hours

Another really early wake up call; 0400.  POC actually awake a bit before.  Coffee and weather review.  Under the influence of a high pressure system so no thunderstorms for today but shifting and variable winds around 10 MPH most of the day forecast.  Waves generally less than two feet and most areas should be close to one foot.  But gusty NE winds have left a swell.  Three bail out options along the way; two marinas/safe harbors and one pretty protected anchorage.  So with a plan in place, it is a go.  Lines untied at 0600.  Very short trip out of the slip and out of the river entrance and back into Lake Huron headed north.  

Exiting Au Sable river channel into Lake Huron

First 2.5 hours having a gentle swell from the NE but good land blockage of the NW winds.  Crossing Thunder Bay, we expected and received increasing wind and waves but agreeable and not too uncomfortable.  

Crossing South to north

About three hours later we passed the decision point and rounded the corner and headed NW.  Decent swells on the starboard forward quarter but nothing splashing over the gunnels.  Winds picked up and veered more to the north and kicked up white caps.  Deviating off course to the west, we skirted the shore line and went behind an island and ride conditions improved.  An hour ahead was the third option, a very protected anchorage if needed.  Ride was ok, Serenity performing well, we eased into a new course more WNW toward our destination 7 miles and an hour away.  Ride pretty sporty as the full Lake Huron changing wind energy into wave energy.  Pressing on it was not unsafe nor while knuckle holding on.  Presque Isle, MI has safe refuge harbor and marina as well as a large anchorage area with reputed excellent holding.  We chose to anchor.  Amazing crystal clear water.  Sandy bottom visible in 10 feet of water.  Anchor set and Yanmar shutoff at 1600.  (Map).  Kim’s anchor video

Anchor rode in clear water

Long day.  We are both pooped but so grateful to have this day.  We were certainly blessed today to have a safe and long travel day.  Should be a great location to view the stars…if we could stay awake.

5135 SM journeyed; 1919.7 hours hobbs

Shore line at anchorage