29-31 May, 2021. Finishing the month cold and wet but finally, the sun

 

No travel miles or hours operated the past few days as we remain stopped at Half Moon Bay Marina.  Serenity anchored 27 May, 2021 in front of the New York City skyline.  Another boat anchored in the area took this picture and we just got it via email.  

Beginning late on our arrival, the temperatures have dropped and the rain began.  We rushed and got showers and were able to grill burgers just at the rain arrived.  Saturday rain and wind heavy, but an opening of a couple of hours materialized and the marina manager gave us a ride to/from the laundromat.  Clean clothes are nice.

No caption required

Croton on Hudson.  Not many folks out and about

Post laundry, the rains came and continued the remainder of the day and night. High today 50; low at night 45.  We have the little electric heater going for a while to warm and take the chill off.  

Sunday, bible study via the internet and Big Rick.  Rain and cold.  We ordered groceries via instacart and during light rain met the driver and picked up our groceries.  Nice service.  We celebrated with hot dogs and chips while watching a documentary on the iPad.  

Half moon bay; Hudson River

Marina

Serenity at floating dock

Memorial Day; cold, cloudy with north wind at sunrise.  Mid day, partly cloudy and warming.  Afternoon, clear skies, warming into the upper 60s.  Great day for getting outside and most of the locals were doing the same.  Early this morning a three mile walk to and around the Croton point park.  

Park beach; no swimmers

This afternoon we took another walk to the north on a really nice sunny day.  Great to get in some exercise.  Very interesting geography and history.  Croton-on-Hudson.  About the area

The Hudson River gets its name from English explorer Henry Hudson who sailed his ship, the Half Moon, up the waterway along with his crew of Dutch and British sailors up towards present-day Albany, NY on September 3, 1609.   (National Geographic Society )

While the weather did limit a bit of our exploring ashore, it offered time to just rest, update finances and pay bills, clean the boat inside, top off the batteries with distilled water and chill.  Outside of Serenity got a great two day natural fresh water wash down.  Underway tomorrow up the Hudson.  Erie Canal 114 Sm ahead.  We will soon cross under a bridge on the Hudson; we hiked across this bridge in 2010 while on the Appalachian Trail. 

Our Marina video

28 May, 2021. Cruising up the Hudson

 

38 SM; 5.7 hours

Not a bad sleep at the rocking anchorage last night; waters smoothed finally as the ferry traffic diminished.  NYC anchorage last night. Plan today was to ride the flood tidal currents up the Hudson for the first few hours of travel.  0800 departure planned, going at idle power and riding the current north as the flow increased and proceed up river.  Underway checklists complete, the little Yanmar diesel started and anchor up at 0800.  Watching out for ferry traffic in progress, we crossed the river west to east and hugged the eastern wall, paralleling the towering NYC skyline.  At idle power, moving at 4 mph speed over ground.  

City pier A

Our jaws hanging and marveling at the gigantic buildings, we proceed north dodging the early morning ferries crossing left and right across the Hudson.

Leaving NYC in our wake, traveling away from the urban canyons, we begin to notice the changing topography and the cliffs bordering both sides of the Hudson.

Has been a long journey since we last saw hills.

Riding the increasing current northward, our speed over the ground increased to almost six mph.  But at a price.  Approaching the George Washington bridge, there was a tremendous funneling effect and wind was strong and gusty from the north.  Exactly opposing the strengthening ebb.  Standing, short choppy waves, nearly 2-3 feet.  Bounce and bouncy Serenity went.  We were riding the current, so the motion really was not violent.  We eased closer to the eastern bank with better wind protection and it smoothed out some.

Windy and choppy

Passing the GW bridge and a slight alteration of course as the river swung more northerly, the winds were abated by the cliffs, shifted more easterly and decreased in velocity.  Remainder of the travel day riding the current north was smooth;  we pushed the RPM up to our cruise setting and made 10 MPH over ground all the way north.  We have made reservations at the Half Moon Bay marina for a few days.  We need a break, the boat needs a break and we are out of water, clean clothes and groceries.  We secured in a floating slip at 1330.  Rains and wind coming later today remaining for the next couple of days. Gale force winds forecast all along the NJ shore and Long Island sound.  So blessed we traveled safely when we did.

Kim (AKA POC) at the helm of Serenity while I hang on.

4058 Sm traveled; 1739.5 hours hobbs

27 May, 2021 Ocean transit to New York, New York

 

47 SM; 8.1 hours

0430, coffee in hand as we studied the weather; winds and sea state.  Positive on the winds, but questionable sea state.  Last night we endured pretty significant winds, lightening and rain as heavy thunderstorms passed through.  Anchor held and while pretty gusty, never so strong to drag anchor.  Glimmer glass anchorage video.   We continued to review weather as we made plans for getting underway.  Ditch bags completed, final security checks of loose gear about.  Sea state still bothered me.  It blew pretty hard the day before and through the night till about midnight and a SE swell built up to 3-4 foot, but for this morning was forecast to be 3 feet at a six second interval.  Borderline for our go decision.  Another looper boat departed and was out the Manasquan inlet at 0700 and was headed up the NJ shore, reporting swells at 2 feet and interval about six seconds with little wind wave on top.  We made the decision to get underway, proceed out the protected inlet and once at the “ocean” assess the sea state and make another decision.  Once we got out, we felt it was a go and turned north and hugged the coast one mile off.  It was sporty, but not unsafe and while it was a long way, about 25 miles to Sandy Hook, we felt with forecast winds matching what we were seeing, we pressed ahead.  Little Serenity out in the big ocean.  While we were pretty close to dirt looking west, looking east nothing but the big rolling Atlantic.  Along the way we passed 4000 miles traveled on our Great Loop journey.  

Screen shot of plotter at 4006 SM

Part of the planning including reaching the northern end of NJ—Sandy Hook and entering the large and exposed Raritan Bay and the New York Harbor; the outflow of tidal currents were impressive as the Hudson River emptied.  We planned our transit as the Ebb was occurring; while bucking the current, the wind forecast to be from the NW-N 10-12 MPH, we did not want wind/current waves stacking up on an already two-three foot swell from the ocean.

Approaching end of Sandy Hook, steering toward NYC harbor

We slowed to about five mph speed over ground, but other than the SE ocean swell it was actually pretty smooth, and it was 14 miles to the Verranzano-Narrows bridge

Verrazano-Narrows Bridge

The last three hours were pretty comfortable from a sea state/wave ride standpoint. We purposely stayed outside the main traffic lanes, avoiding  great big commercial ships and the high speed ferries.  Several 100 foot ferries were indicating 35 MPH on the AIS and would gladly run us down if we got in the way.  No thanks, we stayed out of the way.  Through the big bridge entering NYC harbor proper, electronic and eye ball look out became paramount.  Ferries big and small, with the right of way; tows and barges, anchored commercial ships, pleasure boats and sailboats all competing for the water space with most having right of way.  We slowed, altered course and called on Channel 13, the harbor frequency to inform of intentions.

One each way, passing in the middle; not altering their course or speed

The further up the Hudson and the closer we approached, Kim remarked and we both said it several times, it was like seeing the Grand Canyon for the first time.  Everything was so immense, so massive.  Our brains were struggling to take everything in.  We have all seen the pictures, the movies and documentaries, but to approach on the water in our little boat was truly mind boggling.  We circled the Statue of Liberty for about 45 minutes; but the previous anchorage behind is no longer recommended due to numerous cables on the bottom shifting and fouling anchors.  We proceed a mile further and anchored off of Ellis Island to the north.  This anchorage has some protection from west and north winds, but was very exposed to wakes and they were significant due to all the commercial and recreational boats.  We dropped anchor in 10 feet of water at 1530.  Both of us mentally and physically exhausted.  Sensory overload too.  At anchor; west was NJ City and Hoboken and the western sky.  To the south was Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty.  To the north was the Hudson and to the east was New York City.  Pictures cannot really capture the grandeur, but as we rocked and rolled at anchorage watching a beautiful sunset to the west and the skyline of NYC lit up with reflective sun, then as darkness arrive, an entirely different skyline.

Our approach to NYC harbor

Serenity’s approach

Ellis Island

Serenity’s burgee and NYC

A very grateful day as we gave thanks for our safe passage and safe anchorage tonight.

4020 SM journeyed; 1733.8 hours hobbs

27 May, 2021 New York, New York

 Long day of open ocean travel and large bay into NY harbor.  Lots of huge ships, ferries and taxis zooming at very fast speeds.  Having internet issues tonight.  Swells kept Serenity rolling most of the day. Not unsafe, but just a long day of holding on, watching traffic and the weather.  Almost an hour slowly cruising around the Statue of Liberty; then anchored by Ellis Island.  Very exposed anchorage with constant wakes, but a front row seat to watch the western sunset and the eastern skyline of NYC light up.

Will post a more detailed cruise update tomorrow once the connection issues resolved.

Oh—-passed 4000 miles journeyed while out in the middle of the ocean.   So thankful. God’s grace.

26 May, 2021. Mile 0.0 of the NJ ICW

 

37 SM; 5.5 hours

Reveille at 0500.  Not a bad night at the anchorage; not too bouncy or rolls.  Seemed cloudy but not quite light enough to tell.  Local weather forecast no mention of FOG.  After a cup of coffee I poked my head up and could not see my hand in from of my face.  We had planned on early start to beat predicted strong winds and complete the transit of Barnegat Bay    Last night’s anchorage video

Around 0700 visibility began to improve and at 0730 we raised the anchor and with 1/2 mile visibility and good eyeball contact on the day markers set out.  Turned out a great day.  Plenty of water depth, only a small no wake zone at the end and tidal currents almost a push all day.  And, about 0930 it really began to clear up.  Stronger winds did not arrive until we were anchored again.  Most of today’s bridges were tall enough we just passed underneath, but a few needed opening.

Narrow with a 4 knot current 

Only partial opening

We also passed through the narrow Mt Pleasant canal. The ebb was wild, there were two foot standing waves; at idle we still passed along at 6 mph.  Almost like white water rafting.  Just before passing through the canal we transited a short no-wake zone.

Nice water front home

We have anchored in a protected, tho a bit skinny piece of water.  Glimmer Glass anchorage map. A moderate risk of severe thunderstorms forecast for tonight.  So we are glad to be here.  We are at the end of the NJ ICW.  A short 1/2 mile is the Manasquan Inlet and our open ocean run to NYC and the Statue of Liberty anchorage.  6.5 hours no current travel time.  Weather tomorrow, is questionable.  It may be doable, but with a very strong southerly blow this afternoon and forecast most of tonight before the winds change and decrease, the seas are kicking up pretty good.  Will the sea state-swells and period, be calmed enough by tomorrow morning to set off?

3973 SM journeyed; 1725.7 hours hobbs 

25 May, 2021 Longer day than anticipated.

 

57 SM; 9.4 hours

Carefully, moving northward, but conscious of the approaching weather, we wanted to make headway today.  Last night’s anchorage video. We raised the anchor at 0730 getting underway.  We had called the AmTrack bridge operator and they said the swing bridge would open for us—good to go.  It seemed today was about waiting, fighting on the bow currents and numerous and long no-wake zones.  Just when we would get a push with a tidal current, we would arrive at a multi-mile no wake zone.  

ICW gets pretty close; no-wake zones

There are so many little cuts to the ocean all along the NJ shore, water seems to come in and out without reason.  Just when I found a tide table and thought we would get a push, more current on the bow.  Numerous low bridges that we required to open were all undergoing repair.  Bridge tenders were slow to respond to radios calls and when they did, it was “wait” out.  So we waited, often being told that the construction workers had to clear to safely open the bridge. 

Bridge work with barge in middle

Another bridge construction

 But we got through and even the unknown train swing bridge, while slow, did open just enough for us to shoot through.  The afternoon winds increased 10-12 gusting to 18 from the southwest and when opposed the tidal current made for a decent steep chop.  We had planned a couple of anchorages, but upon arrival were too exposed to the winds forecast for tonight.  So we pressed on.  Water was skinny today but not as shallow as yesterday.  We actually continued all day even during low tide.  Good to go.  Our anchorage for the night is not the best, as we remain somewhat exposed to the SW winds but we do have some protection from houses and the anchor seems to be holding very well.  Tonight’s anchorage map

We only have about 35 miles to go to Manasquan Inlet.  Small craft advisory later tomorrow and as always tidal currents to slow us way down. Oh, and the impossible to plan no-wake zones.   

3936 SM traveled; 1720.2 hours hobbs

24 May, 2021. Stop/go; go then stop NJ

23 SM and 4.5 hours

Previous night’s anchorage became very interesting at about 0130.  Winds were howling and the boat swinging like a weather vane and rocking me awake.  Up to check anchor position and seemed to be holding according to the electronic anchor alarm app and my visual references outside.  Really poor sleep remainder until day light around 0530.  High tide was near 0700 so we made ready to get underway.  Sections of this southern portion of NJ AIC are 2-3 foot deep at low tide; even too shallow for my comfort level.  We got the anchor up and proceeded northward at 0700; hampered by a couple of bridges, no-wake zones and cautiously checking water depth, charts and eyeballs on the markers we safety make it to Stone Harbor NJ.  There was a large circular cut out of the ICW to the east, ringed with houses and restaurants but a protected anchorage.  We set the anchor at 0830; letting the tide descend another three feet.  Shelter haven   Anchorage video

Fixed and ate breakfast, we both took a nap.  Later we splashed the dinghy and proceeded to a small boat landing at the commercial area and the hotel/restaurant folks said it was ok to secure there.  We took our trash to receptacles near by and proceeded to the nearby ACE hardware.  Great, interesting town, just coming out of winter hibernation and COVID lockdown.  Not too crowded at all, but mask mandate remained in all businesses.  I need distilled water for the house batteries and Kim needed ice.  A gallon of distilled water at hand, we continue to walk around the area.  At the convenience store, purchased two seven pound bags of ice, then headed back to the dinghy, loaded up and motored back to Serenity.

Looking at Stone Harbor from anchorage

Supplies stored, dinghy retrieved and secured we made ready to get underway about one hour past low tide.  Sections ahead were very shallows so we were on the move again with a rising tide.  Anchor up at 1515, we requested a bridge opening exiting the anchorage; bridge was only a mile away.  Confirmation from the bridge tender, will open in five minutes.  Posted height closed was 11 feet; we need 12 to not sweat.  Bridge tender came back and said due to low water there was at least 15 feet under the bridge.  So, we inched ahead slowly and proceeded through, not even the radio antenna which is at least 15 feet above water touched.  Good data point.

Squeaked under

There were a couple of ok anchorages ahead, but currents, multiple and long no-wake zones combined with very narrow, twisting and shallow portions we did not made the distance we had hopped.  But did not run aground, did not get waked by anyone as there was virtually no other boat traffic.   We picked an anchorage off the ICW with reported good holding and winds for the night were not forecast strong.  We slowly make our way to Whale creek at high tide as the very strong currents were noted.  We anchored in 11 feet of water at 1745.  Full moon approaching in a few days so the tidal swings are greatest.  Nearly five foot change tonight.  Great holding and pretty open views.  A few small fishing boats till sunset, then very calm and quiet.  Overcast day, never warmed above 60 and expect a chilly night.  Whale creek anchorage

Will have to deal with a broke AmTrac bridge 20 miles ahead.  Was broke yesterday no openings, but late in the day when we called the bridge reported will open with a four hour notice.  Will call in the morning.

3879 SM traveled; 1710.8 hours Hobbs 

23 May, 2021. Sunday rest and stay out of the way

 

4 SM; 1 hour

Image above looks bigger and longer; we just repositioned to what we hoped was a calmer anchorage.  Last nights anchorage off of the USCG station was rolling and rough most of the night.  At 0130 during tidal current change, a big something passed close enough waking us both with a huge wake.  We did not get much sleep after that.  High tide at 0630, where we wanted to go had skinny water, so we upped the anchor early with cups of coffee in our hands.  The recreational, commercial and sightseeing boats were buzzing around like flies as we got underway and continued to buzz us all along the four mile journey.  Folks around here, as we learnt later this afternoon just do not have any wake courtesy.  Exiting off the skinny and narrow ICW we entered Sunset lake area containing decent water, mud flats and real skinny water.  Following local markers and our anchoring guide and the depth sounder we arrived where we wanted to anchor in 11 feet of water. Repositioned all complete at 0730.  Sunset Lake anchorage

We made breakfast, listened to our regular Sunday morning bible study and church services via internet then took naps.  What was a calm and peaceful anchorage became a raging crazy space with gusty NW winds, jet skies and various wake boats and fishing boats.  No regard at all for civility.  Maybe,  just as bad, if not worst, than the south Miami crowd.  We splashed the dinghy and headed ashore in the Wildwood, NJ area looking for the elusive dinghy dock.  While the city has a nice kayak/small boat dock at a nice park, signs clearly stated no motorized boat use.  Taking a leap of faith, we made the assumption that meant large power boats and not our little eight foot dink.  All secured, we walked to the beach about 1/2 mile away.

Actual street sign seen walking to the beach

Pretty crowded beach—post COVID and a warm 90 deg day

The nearest grocery store was closed…no freshies or cookies today.  Due to the rough anchorage, the stiff winds and we might have been illegally parked, we decided to make our way back to Serenity.  We both got pretty wet and splashed about a gallon + of salt water into the dink.  Safely back, Kaos the dink all secured we hung up the wet clothes and life preservers to dry in the bright sun and wind.  An hour before sunset, the anchorage is beginning to quiet down and smooth down as all the boaters end their day.  Shaping up to be a pretty sunset as we finish supper and give thanks.  Today’s anchorage map

3854 SM traveled; 1706.3 hours Hobbs

22 May, 2021. The big ole Delaware Bay behind us

 

62 SM; 8.0 hours

We were up early, preparing the boat, checking and double checking the weather, one last trash dump.  Secured the shore power and made final preparations.  Serenity at marina.  Weather very favorable on the upper end of the river/bay, probably going to be rough last one third.  With assistance from the marina dock hands we tossed off the lines at 0730, slowly inching out of the narrow and shallow channel until reaching the Delaware river with strong incoming tide and a big tow/barge.

Barge in the sun

By the recommendations of the Marina captain, we departed at a time to fight the end of a flood tide, then ride the ebb for several hours heading south.  The first two hours we in fact pushed against a diminishing flood and then slack.  Along the way we recharged the batteries and ourselves so tonight we will glow.

Maintaining proper security distance

Around 1100, the ebb began and velocity of the current increased rapidly.  Soon we had increased our speed over the ground by two mph.  Fast cruisers now, our time of arrival at the southern end looking so much better.  Along the way there are numerous light houses to mark the shoals approaching the main shipping channel.

Several large commercial cargo vessels hailed us a couple of times to let us know they were behind and catching up quick.  Throughout the day we stayed just port of the main channel

AIS had this ship at 20 MPH and catching us fast

About 18 miles to go the ebb begin to diminish and as slack occurred I increased the RPM to maintain our speed at about 9 MPH.  Two MPH faster than normal.  I wanted to keep the speed up.   There was a westerly breeze forecast to swing more NW and increase to 10-15 that would have stacked up choppy waves as the flood began.  Wind against current not a good thing on big water.  And we were so close I wanted to get off the bay and be done with it.  A GPS planned route taking 8 hours at our normal cruise speed turned into a six hour trip to the entry break water at the Cape May canal.  We rode an amazing tidal current nearly four hours that shortened the trip by two hours.

Another 1.5 hours transiting through the canal, mostly at no-wake zone speeds (seems NJ folks kind of blow off the no wake zones) we approached our planned anchorage.  Cape May anchorage. No really decent anchorages in the Cape May area; we are anchored in front of the USCG station with the weekend boaters and sightseers waking us like crazy.  Should die down at sunset.  

From here the big boats go off-shore in stages until arriving NYC.  We will stay inside and do the challenging NJ ICW as the first 1/3 is very shallow and shoaled up.  The remaining 2/3 is deeper with good anchorages.  Only 117 miles total.  At the end, we too will have to travel off-shore about 38 miles to get to NYC.  But, those are days ahead and this week winds do not favor off-shore travel.

3850 SM traveled; 1705.2 hours Hobbs 

21 May, 2021. Very short day to Delaware City Marina

 

17 SM; 3.0 hours

Very short day as planned.  Sweet anchorage last night, smooth, quiet with a mild temperature.  We got underway at 0900 for a planned 1200 arrival at the marina for fuel.  The tidal current was ripping in the canal resulting in only 5 mph over ground for most of the way.  We exited the C&D canal, entering the Delaware River and proceeded northerly in a decreasing ebb tide.  Shortly thereafter, we received very good approach instructions from the marina staff, exiting west into a narrow and shallow channel off of the river.  Dock hands on station as we approached the fuel station and were quickly secured.  Diesel tanks topped off with 35.4 gallons at $3.16/gallon.  Most expensive so far on the journey.  A quick reposition and we were along the face dock with all the other boats as there are only face docks in this narrow channel with impressive currents.  Serenity secured and engine shutdown at 1230.  Docked for the night

Nothing fancy here, but very helpful staff

We have washed the boat, refreshed the composting head, cleaned the inside of the boat and ordered more provisions utilizing Instacard and Aldi.  Did not get much but service was excellent and not really much of a premium considering what a UBER would cost or the roundabout travels on a city bus.  We received a very informative weather, tides and routing brief from the marina captain.  Currently, it favors our travels tomorrow.  Will verify again early in the morning.  Supper onboard as the end of the day approaches.  Decent marina showers too.

3788 SM traveled; 1698.2 hours hobbs 

20 May, 2021. Chesapeake gave final slap across Serenity’s bow!

58 SM; 8.0 hours

Planned final day cruising the Chesapeake where the wind gods have been kind for nearly a week.  At least the forecast for today called for NE 5-10 with a late afternoon shift to the east.  Planned an early go to beat the afternoon sea breezes observed the past couple of days.Annapolis mooring. We released our lines from the mooring ball pendant at 0650 and observed the no-wake zone as we exited Annapolis and headed across the bay.

Beautiful early morning on the bay

Dodging crap pots until deeper water, it remained pretty calm for the first couple of hours.  We were northeast bound into a ebb tide with a one mile current against us.  Easy pass under the bay bridge.

Bay bridge to eastern shore

Mid day the tide reversed, flood increasing velocity into a increasing NE breeze.  Made for a choppy ride with 1-2 foot chop on the bow.  Winds shifted more ENE earlier than forecast but we also began to get shielding from the eastern shore and not nearly so much fetch.  However, between the wind chop and wind, Serenity got a pretty good washing from the bay waters one last time. Entering the Elk river at the upper reaches of the bay, we bid farewell to the Chesapeake and anticipated reaching the Chesapeake & Delaware  C & D Canal .  On the chart plotter the AIS was giving a warning and it was something big getting ready to exit the western end of the canal.  We moved over to the edge of the channel and gave plenty of room to the big guy.

Very big ship

All clear we entered the canal on a max flood tide, gaining over 2 mph increase in our ground speed.  Only a few miles east, we exited south and have anchored in a small basin at Chesapeake City.  We set the anchor in 13 feet at 1415.  Chesapeake city⚓️  A long day, rough and choppy the last couple of miles, but the Bay is behind us.  After a rough start and turn-around a week ago in Hampton, it has been very safe, smooth and enjoyable 200+ miles with great anchorages and towns visited.  There are so many places missed in this gigantic estuary, but a small boat has to take advantage of the good weather.  Another time perhaps.  Chesapeake City, MD anchorage

Tomorrow, will ride the tide down the 14 miles of the C&D to the junction of the upper Delaware Bay.  We will go a bit north on the Delaware river to a marina for the night.  We need boat maintenance, fuel and the dock master provides a nightly weather, tide and guidelines for safely cruising the Delaware Bay to Cape May, NJ.  Another large body of water with fierce tidal currents and a snotty reputation.

3771 SM traveled; 1694.2 hours hobb