3-4 May, 2021. Isolation, gigantic ships and St Elmo's fire

42 SM; 7.5 hours

3 May.  Security along the face dock at the Dismal Swamp visitor center was good as we heard no unusual sounds and enjoyed a peaceful sleep the night before.  Dismal swamp visitor center free wall  Very peaceful and relaxing morning along side the most unique boat facility; North Carolina rest and visitor center along US 17.  The state park opened at 0800.  Hiking shoes laced up, water, snacks and bug spray packed we headed out.  From the visitor center it is a short walk to a pontoon bridge providing portage across the dismal swamp canal to the park visitor center.

Serenity in the background as we cross over

We toured the park visitor center for about an hour, enjoying the exhibits, displays and visuals.  Historical review of swamp formation, George Washington's business interest and how the swamp canal was build using slave labor and the swamp role as part of the underground railroad during the civil war.  Snacks outside on a picnic table then off to walk.  Park has a nice boardwalk going into the wetter areas, but surprisingly, signage was woefully inadequate.  Due to COVID, ranger participation and ranger activities remain curtailed so there was no one to answer questions.  Finishing the board walk we set out on a dirt trail reminding us of our six months hiking the Application Trail (AT).  It is late spring here, and much pollen and rich greens of new vegetation emerging along with the bugs made an enjoyable walk.  Deer tracks and a few bird calls, but no bear or small mammal sightings.

Recommend bring mountain bikes too

The roadside state visitor center hosts were welcoming and friendly as we view their commercial goods for sale and the free local/regional marketing brochures.  We bought T-shirts and the grandson a picture book and Swamp bear.  Pretty lazy afternoon sitting in the shade at a picnic table.  Strong thunderstorm arrived late in afternoon with rain, thunder and lightening but no damaging winds.  Peaceful evening and sleep.

4 May.  Ahead lies the remainder of the dismal swamp canal, Deep Creek lock and draw bridge, a free dock to stop for groceries; the enormous shipping and naval facilities of the Norfolk, VA area and the vast Chesapeake Bay.  0700 the lines were cast and we headed north at a very slow speed as the canal is a no wake zone.  Smooth as glass.  

Farm crossing the canal--sliding pontoon bridge

It was about a two plus hour trip to the free wall just before the Deep Creek draw bridge and lock.  We entered Virginia on top of very smooth water.

Welcome sign

No hurry this morning as we wanted to enjoy the peace of the swamp and canal before returning once agin  into developed civilization.  We arrived at the free wall at 1000, securing Serenity along side a very shady spot.  Within sight and a two block walk was a shopping center with dollar general, a food lion grocery store, a parts store and Hardees.  We grabbed our back backs and headed over.  Didn't need much but freshies are always good and a cold rotisserie chicken discounted is always good.  I also grabbed a burger.  We had lunch in the shade and chilled while waiting for the next scheduled lock opening at 1330.  Lock master called on the radio and said he was raising the bridge and opening the lock.  We fired up the diesel and untied the lines at 1335 and shortly thereafter entered the lock for an 8 foot decent down to sea level.

Locking down at Deep Creek lock

Out of the lock at 1400 it was like entering into a different world.  Housing on both sides of the Elizabeth river, giving way to larger and larger commercial enterprise; jet skies and tows.  Proceeding down the Elizabeth river past Chesapeake, Portsmouth and Norfolk VA we entered the amazing world of the world's largest Naval complex.  Commercial ports, commercial shipbuilding and the Naval shipyards, dry docks and piers hosting US Navy fleet.  Tugs, tows, 100 foot motor yachts,  ferries and 1000 foot shipping container ships all competing for space along the waterway.

Carrier

Frigate or missile cruise in dry dock

Shipyard

USN ships

Waterside marina down town Norfolk 

big deck amphibious ship

We had planned an anchorage off a small creek in downtown Norfolk, but winds were lighter than forecast, the tides was approaching slack, ebb beginning shortly and thunderstorms were still several hours west, we skipped our anchorage and proceeded another 1.5 hours and crossed the wide expanse of the Hampton Roads/James river/Chesapeake;  proceeding to a new anchorage on the Hampton river.  The crossing was exceptionally comfortable as the 10 mph SW winds complemented the ebb flow out the mouth of the Chesapeake.  We anchored at 1745 in nine feet of water.  Water temperature 74 degrees with an afternoon air temp hitting 90!  Hampton anchorage Generally surrounded by taller buildings we anticipate thunderstorms in a couple of hours and believe wind protection from the surrounding building will be helpful.  

Big thunderstorms came at 1920

Weather radio screaming the special weather statement of hazardous lightening, winds and small hail---great.  No hail, but 40 MPH gusts and pretty heavy rain.  St Elmo's fire  Line passed eastward and it was a pretty nice sunset as we ate our cold chicken and gave thanks for a safe and interesting day.

3542 SM traveled; 1658.9 hours hobbs