30 June, 2021. First kinda night time travel

 

20 SM; 3.1 hours

Real early go this morning.  Up again at 0430 to beat the winds and thunderstorms.  We wanted to get to Presque Isle State Park anchorage inside Erie, PA harbor.  Winds this afternoon forecast to crank up and increasing risk of strong thunderstorms with cold front passage later.  Cup of coffee, weather check—near our go/no/go criteria but we felt confident we could hug the coast and with SW winds for the next three hours travel in the lee of land.  All set, we fired up and cast off the lines at 0515.  Sunrise at 0547.  Cloudy, lightening south but a good distance away and tracking away, winds SW at 8 mph.

Underway exiting the sheltered harbor before turning west

Sunrise behind us—red sky in the morning.

Tracking west toward our destination, we ran about 1/2-1 mile offshore, swells 1-2 feet but wind chop negligible.  Swells remain from last night’s prevailing westerlies.  Not uncomfortable, but winds forecast to shift from the west which would aggravate the swell and wind chop.  So, early morning go to beat the wind and afternoon storms.  Winds shifted a bit early but the last hour (seven miles) of travel we were coming more into the lee of Presque Isle which juts out into Lake Erie so not a bad ride.  Entering into the large and well protected harbor, several no wake zones strictly enforced.  Another 30 minutes and we were secured along side the fuel dock at the state park marina.  35 gallons of diesel topped off the tanks and we repositioned to the anchorage.  (Map) All secure at 0930. 

After nap and brunch we waited out some weather then launched Kaos the dinghy to head ashore at the state park.  We hiked about three miles; went to the beach on NW side, then visited the  Historic light house.  Skies darken again so we rode Kaos back to Serenity.  This is a very nice anchorage.  Lots of water foul; eagle observed fishing and friendly mallard ducks looking for hand outs.  Anchorage video

Lake Erie looking NW

Historic Presque Isle light house

Unsettled weather remains for a few more days.  Looking at tomorrow’s travel plans probably a short day due to winds and waves.  Tomorrow morning weather check will determine.

4624 SM journeyed; 1836.0 hours hobbs

29 June, 2021. Almost to Erie, PA; but out of NY

68 SM; 9.7 hours,  Middle line US-CANADA border

Weather forecast for this morning was near perfect, except for one pesky detail.  Possible afternoon thunderstorms.   Not a bad night’s sleep along side the old crumbling factory quay.  Up at 0430, quiet and calm.  Coffee, prayers and weather check.  All sources pretty much in agreement and NWS had slight risk for late afternoon thunderstorms.  Checklists complete, loose gear secured, we cast off the lines at 0525.  Easing out of the industrial area and slowly headed south inside of Buffalo harbor, then a sharp turn to NE, we cleared the breakwaters and formally entered Lake Erie.   Water clear and chilly, almost aqua.  

Crumbling grain elevator at south end of Buffalo harbor

Crazy calm to start the day

Dunkirk, NY was our planned destination, 39 miles SW.  If weather conditions held, we would consider continuing another 35 miles or so to Erie, PA.  Arriving at Dunkirk the lake remained benign, but all along the southern shore of the lake, puffies began to build.  They were not yet getting much vertical lift so they were not concerning.  

Building cumulus along south shore

We pressed ahead after checking winds, radar and forecasts.  Still acceptable to continue 5 more hours toward Erie, PA.   About 4 hours out, I noticed a particularly strong build up at 12 o’clock.  It had the earmarks of a developing thunderstorm.  As we continued at our 7 mph speed SW, the thunderstorm developed an anvil, the tell-tale sign of a significant thunderstorm.  On land, a special weather statement had been issued.  We discussed options and we continued to check our weather radar apps.  

A train of storms headed to Erie PA

Most of the afternoon, weather was forming and moving away from the shore and posed minimal threat.  However, these storms were staying on the coast.  So instead of maybe dealing with 30-40 knot gusts from thunderstorms on the open water, we chose to bail to a marina a hour ahead of us.  Diverting as the winds picked up, a quick phone call confirmed we could seek refuge. It was a small recreational fishing boat marina with decent water depth.   So, 16 miles short of our final destination we safely tied up at the courtesy pier.  Serenity secure at 1500.  (Map) It got windy but nothing severe.  Storms forecast for tonight.   Location safe and secure, and there are hot showers too.  Once lightening passed we went to the beach next door and walked into Lake Erie.  Too cold for us to go swimming.  Northeast PA video

Gravel beach

Weather is certainly marginal tomorrow beginning mid day and continuing throughout the day.  We will give it a go at 0530 again tomorrow and if all of the thunderstorms have dissipated during the night time cooling we will set out and head to Erie PA and a good anchorage.

Safe inside the breakwater walls

4604 SM traveled; 1832.9 hours hobbs

28 June, 2021. Kinda in Lake Erie

14 SM, one lock up and 4.4 hours

 Relocated finally out of the Erie Canal.  Got underway at 0745.  First few miles no wake zone, then next six miles was bucking a two mph current on the Niagara river.  Breezy this morning, but clear skies and kind of a warm 74 degrees.  Several loopers headed out today.  Lake Erie forecast pretty good today for the bigger boats; 1-3 foot waves with WSW winds up to 12.  We planned to relocate and be positioned for an early morning departure tomorrow.  

We had nearly a half hour wait at Black Rock lock as opening during the week are on the half hour each way.  Black Rock Lock. We were second entering as “Turn the Page” a 41 foot looper boat went first.  Easy lock up.  Only five foot elevation gain.    Exiting the lock we proceeded another few miles to an anchorage and old factory wall.  Plenty of water depth, as this used to be a commercial port for General Mills.  Now parks are where industry once was.  We secured at 1100.  It is a high wall and a bit challenging getting on and on the boat.  But it is free, somewhat protected from boat wakes and will be an easy start point tomorrow.  

Quick walk about.  Very nice park along the Buffalo harbor  and the breakwater walls protects from the storm surges of Lake Erie.  First look at Erie today.  Tomorrow we are set out on our first leg of the 241 mile length of the lake.

Buffalo outer harbor

Serenity on the wall

4536 SM journeyed; 1823.2 hours hobbs

25-27 June, 2021. Barnacles beginning to grow, time to move

 

Canal on a warm summer weekend (Gateway Harbor)

Winds have been 15-20 MPH with gusts over 30 off/on for the past three days.  Sunday, 27 June winds were particularly strong.  Friday and Saturday night this place was hopping.  Fortunately, local boaters do not raft up to transits, but everyone seems to come to “town” and tie up on the north and south walls.  Restaurants packed, music playing and folks cruising the waterways.  For the most part, it dies down around 2200.

We have walked all over.  Great trails for hiking and biking.  Visited the shops, grocery stores, dollar this ‘n that and even a coffee shop now and then.  Many loopers in 30-40+ foot boats all along the walls waiting for the weather window.  We have visited with many.  

Monday 28 June, we will leave and proceed west, then south on the Niagara river.  One lock, Black Rock lock will be a five foot lift up to lake level as we enter Buffalo harbor.  We will anchor or go to one of the walls within the harbor for the day.  Winds forecast to diminish throughout the day with Tuesday looking excellent for our beginning leg across Lake Erie.

24 June, 2021. Who knows how long the winds blow

 

5 SM; 1.3 hours

It was time to relocate from the West Canal Park to N. Tonawanda, NY.  We exceeded the published stay at the canal park by a day and while the park staff remained friendly, it was time to leave the free facility.  So we got underway at 0800 and at five MPH or slower proceeded to the pay wall at N. Tonawanda.  We were secured by 0900.  (Map). About an hour later our looper friends on Escape arrived and we caught their lines.  Here at our new location, charges are $1/foot which includes showers, electricity and water.  A decent price.  We have completed the Erie Canal.  Tonawanda is divided by the canal.  North is a separate and distinct town in a different county; south is just Tonawanda and a separate county.  Post Office was 2 blocks north of us and we picked up mail and parts yesterday.  Much more vibrant area than the past few stops.  

If I could predict the weather with 100% accuracy perhaps we would have slowed our travels and visited a few more places along the canal.  But my forecasting and NWS is not 100% so we are here and experiencing deviations from forecast of a few days ago.  Pretty nasty weather, particularly winds expected next several days.  Thunderstorms and rain, but winds in excess of 20 knots and gusts above 30 are the main weather theme.   Yikes, Lake Erie maintains it’s reputation.   We are planning on relocating south along the Niagara river to the Buffalo harbor and an anchorage Sunday afternoon weather permitting.  One remaining lock, not part of the canal system, lifts five feet from the Niagara river to Lake Erie level and into the protected Buffalo harbor.  That is the current plan.  At least we have company as the larger loop boats are here too, waiting better weather before getting in/on Lake Erie.

4522 SM journeyed; 1819.8 hours hobbs

22-23 June, 2021 Remaining at West Canal Park, NY

 

Tourist day at Niagara Falls, NY

Tuesday the 22nd we joined fellow loopers Bruce and Kathy from Escape and UBERed to  Niagara Falls State Park.  We spend a big part of the day enjoying this unique wonder.  Bundled up on a chilly 54 degree morning, it became partly cloudy and warmer by midday.  We hiked the trails, read all of the signs and information kiosks.  Walked to the observation tower at Prospect Point, walked to Terrapin point and walked the Cave of the Winds tour.   We had a great time, really enjoying seeing the falls, a little damp at times but sight and sound were spectacular.  Across the river, Canada looked  like a ghost town, while the US side, active, but not overly crowded.

POC & BW @ Cave of the winds

Horseshoe falls looking toward Canadian side

Out flow from Bridal Veil Falls

Getting wet on Cave of the Winds tour

Out flow @ Bridal Veil Falls

Water a bit chilly

Signage

The four of us had lunch; too expensive for what we got at a food court!  Rode the UBER back to West Canal park and called it a day.  

23 June.  Weather on Lake Erie might have been good enough for about 4 hours—but being the slow boat we are,  that was not a good enough window for us to even thing about moving.  We walked to Walmart only 1.2 miles away to return a few things, get exercise and wander around.  Really nice, clean and well kept neighborhoods observed during the walking trip.  During the afternoon, I splashed the dinghy and cleaned the outside of Serenity’s hull.  The bow has developed a dark brown tannin stain.  Other loopers mentioned that straight lemon juice would neutralize and wash off the stain.  Effectiveness about 80-90%.  Remainder of hull from the waterline to gunnels scrubbed and looking much cleaner.  After hull scrubbed I attached the little outboard to Kaos the dinghy and took a 20 minute ride on the canal.  Another good fresh water flush of the outboard.  Once dinghy and outboard stowed back aboard it was time to clean up.  Bruce and Kathy invited us to dinner on their 42’ Carver motor yacht.  We enjoyed and shared looper stories and strategized our plans for getting across Lake Erie.  Great evening.  

Tomorrow, we will untie the lines and moved to Tonawanda, NY; end of the Erie Canal.  Here at the junction of the canal and Niagara river, southward a few miles is Buffalo, NY and the entrance to Lake Erie.  Weather consisting of high southwest/westerly winds and thunderstorms will keep us in port for a few more days.  Long range forecast appears favorable beginning early next week.

20-21 June, 2021. Significant weather, winds and rain halts Serenity

30SM; 2 locks, 5.5 hours

 Easy Sunday morning yesterday.  No need to hurry; location was well secure and quiet.  Coffee and breakfast as we listened to bible study via the internet.  Peaceful morning before the nasty weather arrives on Monday the 21st.  Just found out there is a major air show at Buffalo, NY with the Blue Angles top billing.  So, we are going to stop short a few miles before the end of the Erie Canal and wait out the weekend boat traffic which will flood anchorages and free walls.  NWS has already issued wind warnings and severe weather warning for late Sunday night and through Monday.

Underway at 0845; intentional 5 MPH travel as numerous docks, walls and slow/no wake areas ahead.  No rush, sunny and light winds forecast for the morning.  These last 100 miles westward have been a joy in ease of travel, scenery and excellent accommodations and provisions.  Folks utilizing the canal tow path have been very friendly with waves and smiles.  Lock tenders and lift bridge operators friendly and talkative.  

Corn rows in the distant

One of many bridges over the canal

There were two or three canal towns we could have stopped and visited, but we continued forward to arrive at the last two locks on the canal.  In the olden days, there were a flight of five locks carved out of solid rock lifting barges up over 50 feet.  Today, only two locks, interconnected raised Serenity and crew up.  Erie Canal National Heritage Corridor. Lock 34 and 35 form the stepped arrangement where interior lock gates form the front and back door for each lock.  Westbound we entered #34 and were lifted 25 feet.  Lock door opens and we enter into lock 35 and the door closes behind us.  Lifted 25 more feet, the front door of lock 35 opens and out we go.  Lots and lots of tourists and visitors observing all of this.  Fortunately for us, nearly calm winds, eddies and current minimal so we failed to put on a show for the lookers.

Final guard gate

Approaching last two locks

Entering the lock

Exiting lock 35

Arriving at  West Canal park, only about five miles from the end, we stopped for the day.  (Map) Securing the lines and shutting at 1415, we were assisted by fellow loopers on the wall ahead of us.  Park full of families enjoying Father’s Day.  Multiple cars and boat trailers in the parking lot.  Excellent wall, short and nearly new.  Shallow depth but good enough for Serenity.  Shore power, water and even showers.  A good size county park and the park ranger said there was no charge.  Great place to wait out the weather for a couple of days.  Early evening, we walked to ALDI only 1/2 mile away and got fresh fruit.  

Very nice park for everyone.

Monday 21 June.  Strong storms came through around 0300 as we scrambled to button up the hatches.  We remain safely secured here.  Contemplated moving the last 6 miles to Tonawanda NY, end of the canal, but  strong winds are here now and stronger winds remain forecast along with thunderstorms and rain.  So we are doing boat projects between showers, walking and catching up on delayed other projects.  Intent is to move to Tonawanda tomorrow.  Lake Erie wind/wave forecast is not good today or for the next few days, so until both meet our criteria we are waiting.  Canal park video

4517 SM traveled; 1818.5 hours hobbs

19 June, 2021. Medina, NY Sandstone supplier to US and England

25 SM; 4.0 hours

Peaceful night in Brockport except for the 3:00 am thunderstorm with heavy rain.  We were both up closing hatches.  In a few hours it was clearing,  partly cloudy and breezy.  Perfect conditions for an early morning walk.  We headed west on the canal trail for a three mile round trip.  Quick breakfast, fill the water tank and disconnect the shore power cord after checklists completed we were underway at 0835.  Slow and easy morning, but patchy fog and cloudy skies as we eased westward.  Decent amount of SW wind but a non issue on the narrow canal.  There are several lift bridges along the route, reminders of times past and they remain historical.  Bridges are at water level; a quick call on the radio approaching and they are soon lifted and Serenity passes through.  Not far today, another historic canal town to explore.  Medina has free walls with electric and showers.  Lift bridge operator just before town gave us the cell phone number and the bathroom/shower door code.  We arrived with brisk SW winds which might make docking a bit tricky, but we were in luck as the free wall was almost parallel to the wind.  45 degree approach, turn to parallel and the wind eases Serenity off the wall.  Lines secured, diesel secured at 1230.  (Map)

It was time for lunch then exploration.  Medina, NY has a large and vigorous renewed historic downtown. Many of the buildings and gothic churches are constructed from the local sandstone.  Many buildings housing boutique stores, shops and restaurants, while above floors comprised of office space and apartments.  

1st Baptist Church

Located in Veterans park

Restrooms and showers functional, clean and efficient 

Sandstone mining occurred here for 80 years.  Just before town, Culvert road crosses under the canal.  The only road to cross under the canal aqueduct.  It was kind of weird cruising over this road.  On the north side of the canal, Orchard creek runs under the canal and forms a decent waterfall.  We walked there this afternoon after we completed our exploration of  historic Medina.  Many, many opportunities to get goodies, but we passed; except for a single chocolate mint paddy at a local candy shop.  It was very good.  Chicken soup made in the thermal pot and salad for dinner tonight.  Rain started at 1900 with thunderstorms expected later.  Medina free wall video

We are milking the last few miles of the Erie Canal as only two locks and about 37 miles remain.  Terminus located at Tonawanda, NY.  We have parts and mail being forwarded to the post office.  Planned arrival this coming Monday.  So tomorrow, no hurries, short travel day to enjoy one last night on the Erie Canal.

4487 SM journeyed; 1813.0 hours hobbs.

17-18 June, 2021 Brockport, NY

32 SM, 2 locks up and 6.6 hours

 Great walk through the neighborhood of Fairport yesterday morning.  Well kept homes and yards, clean streets and sidewalks; significant contrast to some of the other canal towns we have visited.  Perhaps Fairport is close enough to Rochester and folks commute?  Just a fine town we have enjoyed. Weather forecast for Friday is not looking so good, so we plan our day to travel to Brockport, NY.  Three mile walk complete, breakfast complete and lines cast off, we got underway at 0800.  Nice, crisp breezy morning as we proceeded westward at a slow 5 mph.  The remaining 100 or so miles most closely resembles the original Erie canal.  A portion of the waterway traveled is called the "rock cut", the most extensive  excavation with depths through solid rock.  Amazing when considering the dig occurred over 100 years ago and would have been mostly by hand.

We slowed at the duck crossing

Both sides of the canal are now walking and biking trails, where once mules plodded along the tow path towing barges.  Occupied now with walkers, riders, joggers and dog walkers.  Most friendly and returned our waves.  Two locks today, a total gain in elevation of 50 feet.  Walls wall were pretty good shape.

Taken by a looper ahead of us in the lock

 Brockport is between two lift bridges; we requested an opening of the eastern bridge, passing under, we then secured to the south wall near the visitor center at 1330.  (map) Clean, neat and welcoming.  Checking in, great overnight rate of $15 including water, electric, showers and free loaner bikes.  Walmart 1.5 miles away.  Rain, thunderstorms and strong gusty winds forecast for Friday. So we are going to hang out here for an extra day.  Ride the canal trails with the loaner bikes, hike around the town and go exploring.  Still no rush, as only 70 miles and two locks remain of the Erie Canal.  We are really enjoying this portion of our Great Loop travel.  Brockport video  First 100 McCormick reapers were produced here.  Brockport history

4462 SM traveled; 1809.0 hours hobbs

16 June, 2021. Sunny day on the narrowing Erie Canal

 

25 SM, four locks up and 5.0 hours

Really nice sunrise and morning secured to the wall west of the the lock.  Easy morning as we are slowing our forward travel.  120 miles ahead is the end of the Erie Canal and we have mail and packages being sent to the USPO and don’t want to get there before they do.  Lake Erie weather is not so good for the next 5-7 days with strong westerly winds.  So we are slowing down, stopping and visiting this last 100+ mile section of the canal.  Diesel fired up, electronics on and lines cast off, underway westbound at 0753.  Several miles at five MPH due to no wake zones.  

Traveling old original canal

We liked this home on the canal

Lowest bridge on canal; 15’6”

During our transit of four locks today we were lifted 64 feet.  The last three were reported to be the worst in terms of deteriorating walls with crumbling concrete and jagged edges.  We agree and hope we have not punctured our large inflatable round fenders. 

Deteriorating lock wall

Deteriorating lock wall

We were delayed over an hour prior to lock 29 due to restriction between 29 and lock 30.  There has been a breach of the canal integrity and the water depth has been reduced considerably; deeper draft vessels are being held up.  We followed two trawlers, both with deeper draft then Serenity and one of the boats was kicking up mud.  We had no issue.

Lock 28 A controls

Historic tug

Fishing on lock wall

We reached our intended destination for the day at 1415.   Fairport, NY  city provided walls along the canal with electric, water and hot showers.  $11/night—what a deal.  (Map)  We walked around for a couple of hours.  Beautiful village undergoing remarkable renaissance from the earlier days of industrialization.  Many factory buildings rehabilitated into offices, boutique shops and eateries.  On the wall video

Bulletin board

Near Serenity, about a block away was a small Italian deli.  We noticed a flier proclaiming $5 Wednesday night garbage plate.  Which is a local restaurant left over plate that is the rage.  Tonight’s special; hot dog, potatoes, macaroni salad, beans and hot sauce.  Why not?

Fine dinning aboard Serenity.

Pleasant evening on the canal.  Cool, breezy and smooth water.  

4430 SM traveled; 1803.6 hours hobbs.